The House Mice

House mice (Latin name Mus domesticus) are well adapted to living within our homes, shops and factories. House mice will indeed very happily live and breed in our houses, garages, factories and any other place giving them extra protection from the cold, damp and wet. Our waterproof structures, especially cloches, garden sheds and similar shelters enable mice to have a free home and provide the necessities (and more!) that they require to prosper and multiply.

Mice only require adequate food (3 to 4 grams a day) a little water (house mice can get most of their liquid from their food) and freedom from cold and damp conditions. They are very used to living with humans and much appreciate the food scraps and crumbs left by people, the dry warm centrally heated houses and perhaps winning the war with Tom (cat). When house mice find an abundant source of food their numbers rapidly increase.

They are, however, a serious problem causing extensive damage to property as a result of their gnawing activities, and also by eating and contaminating food. Mice may carry a number of infectious diseases that can pose a risk to humans and animals. Where problems arise, it is important that mouse infestations are controlled.

Mice are highly agile and are able to squeeze through very tiny holes (a typical test for house mice access is to see if a simple pencil can enter the hole) if larger than this pencil then house mice will almost certainly enter. To keep house mice at bay we suggest the use of a mesh that covers any potential entrance hole.

House mice are extremely good climbers, and can climb walls, pipes, duct and cavities. A further problem is their very hard incisor teeth which can easily get through hard plastic, timber, and soft metals such as lead and aluminum. They can gnaw away electric cables and this can cause fires - they will even, over time, erode hard materials such as poor concrete.

House mice are a health hazard specifically house mice are carriers of diseases such as Salmonella (also found in poultry, eggs, unprocessed milk, meat and water). Salmonella attacks the stomach and intestines and, in more serious cases, can enter the lymph tracts and will attack all age groups and both sexes - it is a very serious infection.

It is not enough to remove mice from the home - we must make a determined effort to prevent them entering our homes in the first place. This can be done by filling in all small holes and by covering air vents with sturdy wire mesh.

RV Winterizing 101 - Part 1

It's always sad to come to the realization that another camping season is winding down. Part of this realization is preparing the RV for winter storage, so it will be ready to go camping again next spring. My guess is that most RV owners, especially those in cold climate regions, refer to this winter storage preparation as winterizing your RV. When you hear the term "winterizing" the first thought that comes to mind is to protect the RV water system from potential damage caused by exposure to freezing temperatures. Frozen and damaged water lines are in fact the most common problem related to not winterizing your RV, or not properly winterizing your RV; but there is more to winterizing your RV than just protecting the water system from freezing.

The English dictionary definition for "winterize" is to prepare something, especially a house or an automobile, to withstand cold winter conditions. What I find interesting about this definition is that your RV is essentially a house and automobile combined. With that said, winterizing your RV would entail more than just preparing the water system for cold winter conditions. We would need to be concerned with preparing the RV's interior, exterior, chassis, and plumbing from the harsh winter months.

In this article, I will discuss some tips for preparing the RV interior, exterior and the chassis for cold winter storage, and next week I will discuss preparing the plumbing system for the cold winter storage.

RV Interior

When RVs are stored for the winter it's not uncommon for mice and squirrels to make their winter home in the RV. These animals are notorious for chewing through vehicle wiring, plastic and rubber components, resulting in extensive damage to the RV. If it's a motorized RV start the engine periodically to keep any chewing squirrels out of the engine compartment area.
Possibly, the most important step is to try and prevent mice and other rodents from being able to access your RV. This can be difficult because they can enter the RV through some very small openings. Start by inspecting the underside of your RV for any gaps or holes. Fill these gaps using silicone or expanding foam. A word of caution, if you never used expanding foam before, you should experiment with it on something other than your RV first. When it dries it can expand a great deal more than you expect. Next, open drawers and cabinet doors inside your RV. Look in all of the corners and crevices, especially where plumbing and wiring enter the RV. If you can see any daylight mice can get in. Fill these areas with silicone or foam.

Remove all food from the RV when it's being stored and thoroughly clean the RV to remove any remnants of food that might attract mice and other rodents. Some people say mothballs help deter mice from making their home in your RV, and others say an alternative to mothballs is dryer sheets, like Bounce. I have talked to people who swear they work and the smell is much more pleasant. If you are close to where your RV is being stored you may want to use conventional mouse traps and check for mice every week or so.

Next you should defrost the freezer compartment and clean the refrigerator. Leave the doors open and place baking soda in the compartments to absorb any odors. If the RV is in long-term storage, and won't be plugged in to electricity, it's a good idea to turn off the main breaker in the distribution panel. Turn the LP gas supply valve off at the cylinder(s) or tank. Close the window blinds to avoid sun exposure to the carpet, drapes and upholstery. Leave doors drawers and cabinets open. Clean the A/C filter(s). If you have vent covers installed on the overhead vents, that prevent rain from getting inside, leave them cracked open to allow for some ventilation. Remove any dry cell batteries from devices like smoke alarms, clocks etc.

RV Exterior

When you store your RV outside for extended periods the exterior begins to show signs of wear, caused by the constant exposure to the elements. Ozone in the air and ultraviolet, (UV) rays from the sun start to take their toll. Ozone causes the paint to fade and makes products like rubber and vinyl dry out, crack, and start to deteriorate. The UV rays from the sun make this aging process happen quicker. Before you store your RV you need to give the exterior a thorough cleaning. Whenever I'm washing or cleaning anything, whether it's an automobile or the RV, I start from the top and work my way down. It's a good idea to clean the RV roof before putting the RV in storage too. The type of roof your RV has will determine the cleaner you will need to use. Wash the exterior and if you're really motivated wax it, using a quality wax formulated for the type of exterior surface your RV has. A good coat of wax protects your RV finish the same as it does an automobile. When you are cleaning the RV exterior inspect all roof seams, body seams and window sealant for any cracks and openings that would allow water to get in. Consult your RV dealer for sealants compatible with these materials and re-seal as required.

Don't forget to clean the awning fabric, and let it dry completely before storing it. If you have a pop-up or hybrid trailer make sure all of the tenting material is clean and dry before storage.
Ideally you should try to store your RV under a covered area and on a solid surface like concrete. If this isn't possible avoid parking under trees and in tall grass, fields or wooded areas. If the RV won't be parked under some type of covered shelter you may want to invest in a cover. Covering your RV can be a logical and cost effective way to help protect your investment. If you decide to use a cover make sure it is made of a breathable material.

Service all locks with a spray lubricant and lubricate all hinges. Insects are attracted to the odorant added to LP gas. You may want to cover LP gas appliance vents to prevent insects from making their winter home inside these vents. If you do cover the vents, remember to remove the cover next spring.

RV Chassis

Just like the exterior of the RV, the tires on your RV can be damaged by the harmful UV rays from the sun. Inflate the tires to the manufacturer's recommended pressure and cover the tires with covers that will block out the sunlight. Place something like a piece of wood between the ground and the tires. Frozen ground and petroleum based surfaces, like asphalt, can damage tires over time. Make sure that whatever you use to block the tires is larger than the footprint of the tire. No portion of the tire should hang over the edge of the tire block; this can cause internal damage to the tire. For trailers, chock the wheels front and rear. If you are storing a pop-up outdoors angle the tongue downward to assist in snow and water run-off.

Battery maintenance is an important part of winter storage preparation. If you plan to start the unit while in storage, and to periodically plug the unit into shore power leave the batteries in the unit. Plugging it into shore power once a month for about eight hours will help keep the coach batteries topped off. At a minimum you should check and adjust the water levels in all batteries and make sure the batteries are fully charged. A discharged battery will freeze much quicker than a fully charged battery. If the RV is in long-term storage it's better to remove the batteries and store them where they will not freeze. In either case keep the batteries fully charged when they are in storage.

Note: If your converter charger doesn't have a three stage charging system (or storage maintenance mode) don't leave the unit plugged in constantly. This could overcharge the batteries and deplete the electrolyte levels.

If it's a motorized RV you should fill the fuel tank prior to storage and add a fuel stabilizer. Run the engine and the generator long enough for the stabilizer to get through the entire fuel system. Change the oil and oil filter on the engine and the generator prior to storage. Acids accumulate in used oil and can corrode engine bearings, especially while sitting for long periods of time. If possible exercise the generator for at least two hours every month with a minimum of a ½ rated load on it. Consult your generator owner's manual for load ratings.

In my next article I will discuss how to prepare the RV plumbing system for the cold winter months.

2006 Home Sellers Energy Inefficiencies Can Sour Buyers

Do's

--Provide the last three months electric and natural gas/heating oil bills. Buyers appreciate pro-active sellers providing these costs without asking. Buyers can usually can energy history from utility companies.

-Be honest about how you set the temperature in your home. If you blast your furnace for a new baby or practice conservation let buyers know. Disclose that you have turned the thermostat down on the hot water or pool heater too.

-If you have your pool opened up for showings and have a solar cover, let buyers know. Pool energy costs are a second-tier energy expense to buyers.

-Install a programmable thermostat if you don't already have one. Buyers look for this telltale sign of energy-awareness .

--Make readily available manuals from energy star appliances (appliances that significantly exceed the minimum national efficiency standards). Save yellow energy use labels from furnaces, hot water heaters and appliances.

-Inform buyers that you have solar-energy systems. Buyers might miss these systems while taking in other features of your home on their first visit.

-Disclose active or abandoned buried oil storage tanks. Most state residential property disclosure laws require sellers to inform buyers of the location, size and age of tanks.

-Display furnace and air-conditioning service histories. Buyers love to see maintenance records.

-Verify that all radiators valves work properly. Buyers love the even heat from this old system but want to know that they can control heat levels. Buy radiator valve keys at the local hardware store.

-Provide receipts from recent insulation or window replacement projects. Highlight special features such a double glazing and low-e coatings.

-Reports from energy audits on your home completed by your utility company.

Don'ts

- Forget to replace your furnace filter once a month. Home inspectors and home shouldn't discover filthy filters. Ditto water filters in your refrigerator and sink. Check dryer and range-hood filters too.

-Cover windows and doors with plastic sheeting. Buyers want to see views and use doors on property tours. Plastic coated windows looks like a energy band-aid. Boomers remember the coated couches and lamp shades.

-Pile straw bales around the foundation. Buyers consider this a quick fix for problem crawlspaces.

-Close all the blinds to save air-conditioning costs when showing your home. You won't sell your house if it is dark and closed up for property showings or buyers have to fumble in the dark for lights.

-Remember to vacuum floor vents and ventilation supply ductwork. Many a homebuyer has moved-on from pet-hair tumbleweed coming from the bowels of a heating system.

-Leave exhaust vents running in bathrooms and kitchens during home showings. They suck the heat out and appear wasteful to buyers.

-Neglect covering window air-conditioners in the off season. Drafty air-conditioning units aren't a selling plus and emit outside noises . Don;t forget to clean filters on window units.

-Ignore installing storm windows during heating season. Buyers need to see that you have storm windows for maximum heat retention. Make the screens visually available. Buyers always ask about them and sometimes verify the number matches window and door count.

-Disregard build up of dust on refrigerator and freezer coils. Move appliances out and vacuum before listing your home . Mr. and Ms. clean-obsessed buyer might question overall home maintenance at a home inspection if they discover excessive debris around refrigerators and freezers.

Taking Good Care of a Brand New Freezer

Freezers are one of the most utilized kitchen appliances in homes, yet many of us don't know how to correctly and regularly maintain them. It is crucial that you fully understand and read all the instructions provided in your installation manual so you will always keep your freezer in tip top shape.

For the internal mechanisms to run efficiently it is important to keep your freezer in a dry place and away from sources of heat for example heat vents. It can be also crucial to keep the unit away from constant and direct sunlight. Always make sure that the freezer sits on level ground to make certain that the freezer door opens and closes without obstructions.

To help keep your unit energy efficient and running at its best, never keep the doors open for extended periods of time. When the cold air leaks out your freezer will work twice as hard to try and cool its inside area towards the set temperature. If you need to access your frozen foods frequently you might be far better off getting a top-down freezer or even an undercounter freezer. One more factor you can do is to thoroughly clean the door seals on a regular basis to help prevent the loss of cold air.

Did you know that overstocking your fridge or freezer will decrease its efficiency greatly. It's not recommended that you simply fill your unit to the brim, though keeping an almost empty freezer isn't a great idea either. Keeping the unit half to three quarter full can help it to remain cool a lot easier.

1 other thing that individuals don't do very frequently, or forget to do is getting the freezer defrosted at least once a year. Whenever you noticed that the frost builds up to more than a couple of inches then it's time for a defrost. Although you're defrosting the freezer, give it a clean with some washing detergent and water the same time. To get rid of bad smells, it is possible to use some baking soda solution to clean the inside walls, this works rather well in most cases.

Most instruction manuals will tell you that keeping the condenser coils thoroughly clean is important as part of the unit's regular maintenance. You can very easily do this yourself by cleaning out the dust buildup using a vacuum cleaner. Doing so once every three months ought to suffice.

Rusting of the internal coils can be the biggest killer of freezers. Whenever you go on a long holiday it's not advisable for you to unplug the unit for extended periods (1 to 2 weeks). The rusting of the condenser coils is due to the melting of the internal ice crystals.

In the event that you lose electricity within your house for a few days, the most effective thing to do is to keep your freezer doors closed until the blackout passes. If the door seals are intact, the unit itself is capable of keeping your food frozen for close to several days. Wrapping a thick blanket around the unit will help as well.

How to Remove Popcorn Ceiling Texture? (Residential)

Removing popcorn ceiling texture can be less of a chore with the proper tools and techniques. You can also save a decent amount of money if you plan to do-it-yourself. This article describes the proper procedures required to remove popcorn texture as well as getting the ceiling prepared for a new texture or a smooth finish.

Required Tools & Materials:

Eye Protection such as goggles

Dust Mask

Pump Sprayer bottle: Typically found in the lawn and garden department at your local home improvement store. ($15-$30ea)

Plastic Sheeting: To be placed over floors and furniture as necessary ($10-$30)
8" or 10" Drywall taping knife: Located in the drywall section of your home improvement store.
($4-$7 ea.)

Lightweight Drywall Joint Compound (It's typically in a box and is ready to use out of the box):
Located in the drywall section of your home improvement store. ($5-$9 ea.)

Popcorn Texture Removal:

Step 1 - Lay plastic sheeting over all flooring, furniture, and cover all doorways to help prevent the spread of dust. This is an extremely dusty and messy project. No matter how much plastic sheeting you lay down or hang in doorways, the dust will still travel throughout the house. So, your goal is to contain as much as possible. It is highly recommended that you remove as much furniture and belongings from the work area as possible because they will get dusty.

Step 2 - Fill your pump sprayer with water and spray the ceiling starting with about a 6'x6' area. Let the water penetrate the texture for several minutes. NOTE: if the ceiling was painted with a semi-gloss or gloss paint, spraying water on it will not work sense it will not be able to penetrate the texture. In this situation, you will have to dry scrape as much of the texture off as possible and float (or skim coat) the entire ceiling with a drywall mud compound to smooth it out.

Step 3 - After the popcorn texture has absorbed the water, use your 8" or 10" drywall knife and scrape the texture off letting it fall to the floor on your plastic sheeting. All of the texture may not come off. This is normal. But, you should be able to get a majority of it removed.

Step 4 - Once all or most of the texture has been removed, use your drywall knife and some lightweight drywall joint compound to spread a thin (1/16" to 1/8") skim coat over any rough spots or areas on the ceiling that may need to be smoothed out. Let the compound dry which can take several hours to 24 hours depending on how thick it is applied as well as the room temperature. The colder it is, the longer it will take to dry.

Step 5 - Once the drywall compound fully dries, sand smooth all areas where you applied the compound. Apply additional skim coats and sand as necessary to obtain a smooth finish.

Step 6 - You can leave the ceiling smooth after completing your skim coats and begin painting. Or you can have the ceiling textured by a Professional. I would recommend you have a Professional take over from here since it requires various texture spraying equipment (i.e. compressor, texture hopper, & texture gun) and someone experienced in spraying or applying textures.

Safety First: Please note that there are some safety concerns when performing this work.
1) Some drywall muds and textures installed in buildings built before 1980 may contain asbestos and buildings built before 1978 may have paint that contains lead. Removing popcorn ceiling texture creates a very dusty work environment, and when the ceiling texture is removed, these lead and asbestos materials will be released in the air. Please consult with your local licensed lead and asbestos abatement contractor prior to starting the work, for testing and/or for abatement.

2) For additional questions regarding lead exposure, please review the "Renovate Right" pamphlet produced by the EPA. epa.gov/lead/pubs/renovaterightbrochure.pdf

3) A dust mask does not qualify as approved personal protective equipment when removing drywall mud and/or textures that contain lead and asbestos.

4) Additionally, do not attempt to remove the popcorn texture if young children or pregnant women are present or living in the house if lead and/or asbestos is a concern.

Cheers!

Air Sealing Tips For the Home

Air sealing is a low cost, do it yourself project that can save you up to 20% on your heating and cooling costs according to the Environmental Protection Agency. Some homeowners are concerned with making the home to tight. This is unlikely in an older home. If you are concerned with the air quality, hire a home energy rater to test your home.

We will start in the attic and work our way down the house and to the exterior.

Attic

Seal penetrations in the wall plates -- Move back the insulation enough to expose the wall plates. Seal around wires and pipes with caulk or spray foam such as Great Stuff. This is a good place to use a fire rated caulk or foam product. In most areas it is required for new construction. Check with your local code official. Caulk both sides of the wall plate where it meets the drywall or plaster with latex caulk.

Chases should be properly sealed off and were almost always left open in older homes allowing air to easily pass though. Use plywood or drywall to cap off the chase. Cut around wires and pipes as close as possible and seal the remaining voids with caulk or spray foam.

Attic hatches - These are often a big loss of air in the home. Install an attic tent or build a box out of foam insulation board to cover the hatch. The high r foam with a foil face works the best. Use a foil face mechanical tape to hold the box together. Do not use duct tape. It will come apart in time. Also use a foam weatherstrip around the hatch door when possible. If your home has a whole house fan, build a box for it too when its not in use.

Living Space

Electrical boxes -- Caulk switch and receptacle boxes. Turn off the circuit breaker and test to be sure the power is off. Remove the wall plate with a screwdriver and caulk between the box and the drywall with latex caulk. Install a foam weatherstrip gasket and replace the wall plate. Use a damp rag to clean up any excess caulk from the wall. Turn the circuit breaker back on.

Plumbing pipes -- Check under all sinks where the pipes go through the wall. Slide back the escutcheons (trim plate) and seal around the water and drain pipes with caulk or spray foam.

Heating and cooling registers -- Remove the grill with a screwdriver and caulk or spray foam between the duct work and the drywall or flooring material. Replace the grill.

Dryer vent -- Caulk or spray foam between the metal pipe and the drywall.

Basement/Crawlspace

Seal penetrations in wall plates -- Same as in the attic.

Chases -- Same as in the attic.

Sill plates -- Seal where the sill plate meets the foundation with caulk or spray foam.

Exterior

Seal penetrations in the siding -- Caulk around electrical wires and conduits, hose bibs and air conditioning line sets with a good quality siding or window and door caulk.

Windows and doors - Inspect around windows and doors for breaks in the caulking. Use a good quality latex or window and door caulk.

Caulking

Latex -- water clean up, paintable, usually white or clear.

Silicone -- difficult to clean up, usually not paintable, comes in white, clear, brown and other colors.

Fire retardant -- use at fire stopping locations such as sealing penetrations in wall plates or chases.

Spray Foams

Standard -- great for sealing voids around pipes and wires.

Window and door -- less expansion, prevents binding of windows and doors due to the foam over expanding and pressing on the jambs.

Fire retardant -- use at fire stopping locations such as sealing penetrations in wall plates or chases.

Spray foams can be messy! Use caution when applying. Allow it several hours to cure before trimming away excess. Very stick until cured.

Do not seal: weep holes (in brick and windows and doors including storm windows), the bottom edge of lap siding, attic or foundation vents.

Advice For Damp Homes

Is your home damp?

A damp house can encourage mould growth and mites which can increase the risk of illness. Here are some tips to identify the causes and what to do.

Water ingress

Damp caused by water penetrating from outside has a couple of tell tale signs. Firstly water penetrating through brickwork will extract the salts and leave a white deposit called efflorescence. Secondly a leak will leave a tide mark. As the problem gets worse further ring marks will appear. It is a good idea to mark the outer ring and monitor to see how it progresses. Often it takes several attempts to solve a leak as water can travel in unusual routes.

If either of these signs are apparent check for obvious causes such as a leaking or blocked gutter/downpipe, objects stacked against the external wall bridging the damp proof course, leaking pipes, dripping overflows, damage to roof or missing tiles. If fixed quickly there will be less damage to the fabric of the building. For more serious problems or no obvious signs get an expert in. If you suspect the damp proof course is damaged or there is not one advice from a damp-proofing specialist will be required.

Condensation

A common cause of damp is condensation. Condensation occurs when moisture in the air hits a cold surface and condenses. This is why it is more a problem in cold weather. Signs of condensation are mould growth in the corners of a room, around windows, behind wardrobes/cupboards, above cookers and baths and sometimes on north facing walls.

It is essential to treat any mould existing first. Wash off mould with a fungicidal wash following the manufacturers instructions. Bleach can also be used but may damage surfaces and care is required not to get it on the skin. Do not brush or vacuum up mildew as is will disturb the spores. Always dry clean clothes and shampoo carpets.

Redecorate surfaces with a quality fungicidal paint to help reduce mould reoccurring.

The only way to reduce condensation is to follow three simple steps.

1. Reduce moisture produced.

2. Insulate

3. Ventilate

There are very simple ways to reduce moisture in the home by simply changing our lifestyle. These tips will make a big difference to the moisture produced in the home.

o Vent tumble dryers (unless self condensing)

o Dry washing outside. If this is not possible hang washing up in the bathroom and leave a window open

o Try not to use portable gas heaters as they add more moisture in the air

o Cover saucepans when cooking.

o Do not leave a kettle to continuously boil.

If a home is warmer it reduces the likeliness of condensation. Insulation and draughtproofing is the most effective way of helping to keep your home warm and save money on our heating bills. Home improvements such as secondary or double glazing will reduce heat loss but you must ensure that windows are fitted with trickle vents. Cavity wall and loft insulation are also very effective. Check with you local council to se if any grants are available, pensioners and low income families usually receive substantial grants. There are companies that will carry out works on a grant scheme. In very cold weather low background heating on all day will help keep the fabric of the building warm and reduce moisture condensing on cold spots. Here are some essential tips of what not to do:

o Do not draughtproof the kitchen or bathroom

o Do not completely block up chimneys (always fit an air brick or grill)

o Do not block up ventilators

o Do not cover eaves ventilators when laying loft insulation

o Do no forget to draughtproof the loft hatch

It is possible to ventilate your home without making it draughty. Here are a few tips:

o If windows have trickle vents do use them. If your windows don't look into the cost of fitting them.

o Leave a gap between the back of furniture and an external wall. Where possible position furniture on internal walls.

o Open kitchen and bathroom windows and close the door when in use. If you have an extractor fan please use them they are very cheap to run. If you don not have an extractor fan in these rooms consider fitting them.

o When in a room open a small window.

o If the condensation is worse in the loft or ceiling below check the eaves ventilators are not blocked. If none are fitted consider fitting some. Some eaves ventilation systems are hard to spot so close inspection is required. Always check what material a soffit is made from before purchasing a ventilator as some soffits in older houses are made from asbestos.

If you approach reducing condensation from the three simple steps you should find a dramatic difference. If no improvements are made seek professional advice.