Air Conditioning Tips to Save You Money

In summer, the average American family can spend about 40% of their total energy bill on just the air conditioning of the house alone. You can reduce your monthly bills by following these tips that will help you keep your family cool during the hot summer months.

Do not cool rooms that are not used often. If you have central air conditioning, close the vents in rooms such as bathrooms or guest bedrooms when those rooms are not in use. Be sure to make sure your ductwork is properly sealed and insulate vents that are in the basement or attic, as these areas of the house don't need cooling. Another option is to purchase a portable or window air conditioning unit to cool one large room or area of the house at a time, without spending the energy to cool rooms that are not in use. Modern portable air conditioners are efficient and quiet. They have the ability to cool down a room quickly while saving you money on your electricity bills. Be certain that the unit you buy is the proper size for the room it is cooling. One that is too small won't be able to cool the room completely without constantly being on, while one that is too big will consume more energy than is required.

Use blinds or shades on your windows to block the heat of the direct sunlight. You can use shutters on the outside of your house to block the heat further. Keep your windows closed during the day to keep cool air in and the hot air out. At night, if it's cool outside, you can turn off the air conditioner, open your windows and turn on a fan for ventilation.

Make sure you replace the air filter in your air conditioning unit at least once a month for maximum efficiency and airflow. Dust or pet hair will eventually build up and block the cool air from traveling through the ducts, making the unit run longer and costing you excess money.

Using the oven, dishwasher and clothes dryer generate heat. If possible, try to delay using these appliances until evening when the weather gets a little cooler. If possible, use your microwave for cooking or fire up the barbeque and do some grilling outside. If you have to cook on the stove, use your exhaust fan and cover pots to keep the heat from traveling throughout your house.

If your air conditioner is more than 15 years old, you may want to invest in a modern unit. Today's air conditioners are built for high efficiency and are optimized for using less energy. Modern cooling systems can use up to 50% less energy as their older counterparts.

Being smart about how you cool your house will not only save you money, but will have a friendly impact on the environment as well. This summer, follow these helpful suggestions for a comfortable and more efficient home.

The House Mice

House mice (Latin name Mus domesticus) are well adapted to living within our homes, shops and factories. House mice will indeed very happily live and breed in our houses, garages, factories and any other place giving them extra protection from the cold, damp and wet. Our waterproof structures, especially cloches, garden sheds and similar shelters enable mice to have a free home and provide the necessities (and more!) that they require to prosper and multiply.

Mice only require adequate food (3 to 4 grams a day) a little water (house mice can get most of their liquid from their food) and freedom from cold and damp conditions. They are very used to living with humans and much appreciate the food scraps and crumbs left by people, the dry warm centrally heated houses and perhaps winning the war with Tom (cat). When house mice find an abundant source of food their numbers rapidly increase.

They are, however, a serious problem causing extensive damage to property as a result of their gnawing activities, and also by eating and contaminating food. Mice may carry a number of infectious diseases that can pose a risk to humans and animals. Where problems arise, it is important that mouse infestations are controlled.

Mice are highly agile and are able to squeeze through very tiny holes (a typical test for house mice access is to see if a simple pencil can enter the hole) if larger than this pencil then house mice will almost certainly enter. To keep house mice at bay we suggest the use of a mesh that covers any potential entrance hole.

House mice are extremely good climbers, and can climb walls, pipes, duct and cavities. A further problem is their very hard incisor teeth which can easily get through hard plastic, timber, and soft metals such as lead and aluminum. They can gnaw away electric cables and this can cause fires - they will even, over time, erode hard materials such as poor concrete.

House mice are a health hazard specifically house mice are carriers of diseases such as Salmonella (also found in poultry, eggs, unprocessed milk, meat and water). Salmonella attacks the stomach and intestines and, in more serious cases, can enter the lymph tracts and will attack all age groups and both sexes - it is a very serious infection.

It is not enough to remove mice from the home - we must make a determined effort to prevent them entering our homes in the first place. This can be done by filling in all small holes and by covering air vents with sturdy wire mesh.

RV Winterizing 101 - Part 1

It's always sad to come to the realization that another camping season is winding down. Part of this realization is preparing the RV for winter storage, so it will be ready to go camping again next spring. My guess is that most RV owners, especially those in cold climate regions, refer to this winter storage preparation as winterizing your RV. When you hear the term "winterizing" the first thought that comes to mind is to protect the RV water system from potential damage caused by exposure to freezing temperatures. Frozen and damaged water lines are in fact the most common problem related to not winterizing your RV, or not properly winterizing your RV; but there is more to winterizing your RV than just protecting the water system from freezing.

The English dictionary definition for "winterize" is to prepare something, especially a house or an automobile, to withstand cold winter conditions. What I find interesting about this definition is that your RV is essentially a house and automobile combined. With that said, winterizing your RV would entail more than just preparing the water system for cold winter conditions. We would need to be concerned with preparing the RV's interior, exterior, chassis, and plumbing from the harsh winter months.

In this article, I will discuss some tips for preparing the RV interior, exterior and the chassis for cold winter storage, and next week I will discuss preparing the plumbing system for the cold winter storage.

RV Interior

When RVs are stored for the winter it's not uncommon for mice and squirrels to make their winter home in the RV. These animals are notorious for chewing through vehicle wiring, plastic and rubber components, resulting in extensive damage to the RV. If it's a motorized RV start the engine periodically to keep any chewing squirrels out of the engine compartment area.
Possibly, the most important step is to try and prevent mice and other rodents from being able to access your RV. This can be difficult because they can enter the RV through some very small openings. Start by inspecting the underside of your RV for any gaps or holes. Fill these gaps using silicone or expanding foam. A word of caution, if you never used expanding foam before, you should experiment with it on something other than your RV first. When it dries it can expand a great deal more than you expect. Next, open drawers and cabinet doors inside your RV. Look in all of the corners and crevices, especially where plumbing and wiring enter the RV. If you can see any daylight mice can get in. Fill these areas with silicone or foam.

Remove all food from the RV when it's being stored and thoroughly clean the RV to remove any remnants of food that might attract mice and other rodents. Some people say mothballs help deter mice from making their home in your RV, and others say an alternative to mothballs is dryer sheets, like Bounce. I have talked to people who swear they work and the smell is much more pleasant. If you are close to where your RV is being stored you may want to use conventional mouse traps and check for mice every week or so.

Next you should defrost the freezer compartment and clean the refrigerator. Leave the doors open and place baking soda in the compartments to absorb any odors. If the RV is in long-term storage, and won't be plugged in to electricity, it's a good idea to turn off the main breaker in the distribution panel. Turn the LP gas supply valve off at the cylinder(s) or tank. Close the window blinds to avoid sun exposure to the carpet, drapes and upholstery. Leave doors drawers and cabinets open. Clean the A/C filter(s). If you have vent covers installed on the overhead vents, that prevent rain from getting inside, leave them cracked open to allow for some ventilation. Remove any dry cell batteries from devices like smoke alarms, clocks etc.

RV Exterior

When you store your RV outside for extended periods the exterior begins to show signs of wear, caused by the constant exposure to the elements. Ozone in the air and ultraviolet, (UV) rays from the sun start to take their toll. Ozone causes the paint to fade and makes products like rubber and vinyl dry out, crack, and start to deteriorate. The UV rays from the sun make this aging process happen quicker. Before you store your RV you need to give the exterior a thorough cleaning. Whenever I'm washing or cleaning anything, whether it's an automobile or the RV, I start from the top and work my way down. It's a good idea to clean the RV roof before putting the RV in storage too. The type of roof your RV has will determine the cleaner you will need to use. Wash the exterior and if you're really motivated wax it, using a quality wax formulated for the type of exterior surface your RV has. A good coat of wax protects your RV finish the same as it does an automobile. When you are cleaning the RV exterior inspect all roof seams, body seams and window sealant for any cracks and openings that would allow water to get in. Consult your RV dealer for sealants compatible with these materials and re-seal as required.

Don't forget to clean the awning fabric, and let it dry completely before storing it. If you have a pop-up or hybrid trailer make sure all of the tenting material is clean and dry before storage.
Ideally you should try to store your RV under a covered area and on a solid surface like concrete. If this isn't possible avoid parking under trees and in tall grass, fields or wooded areas. If the RV won't be parked under some type of covered shelter you may want to invest in a cover. Covering your RV can be a logical and cost effective way to help protect your investment. If you decide to use a cover make sure it is made of a breathable material.

Service all locks with a spray lubricant and lubricate all hinges. Insects are attracted to the odorant added to LP gas. You may want to cover LP gas appliance vents to prevent insects from making their winter home inside these vents. If you do cover the vents, remember to remove the cover next spring.

RV Chassis

Just like the exterior of the RV, the tires on your RV can be damaged by the harmful UV rays from the sun. Inflate the tires to the manufacturer's recommended pressure and cover the tires with covers that will block out the sunlight. Place something like a piece of wood between the ground and the tires. Frozen ground and petroleum based surfaces, like asphalt, can damage tires over time. Make sure that whatever you use to block the tires is larger than the footprint of the tire. No portion of the tire should hang over the edge of the tire block; this can cause internal damage to the tire. For trailers, chock the wheels front and rear. If you are storing a pop-up outdoors angle the tongue downward to assist in snow and water run-off.

Battery maintenance is an important part of winter storage preparation. If you plan to start the unit while in storage, and to periodically plug the unit into shore power leave the batteries in the unit. Plugging it into shore power once a month for about eight hours will help keep the coach batteries topped off. At a minimum you should check and adjust the water levels in all batteries and make sure the batteries are fully charged. A discharged battery will freeze much quicker than a fully charged battery. If the RV is in long-term storage it's better to remove the batteries and store them where they will not freeze. In either case keep the batteries fully charged when they are in storage.

Note: If your converter charger doesn't have a three stage charging system (or storage maintenance mode) don't leave the unit plugged in constantly. This could overcharge the batteries and deplete the electrolyte levels.

If it's a motorized RV you should fill the fuel tank prior to storage and add a fuel stabilizer. Run the engine and the generator long enough for the stabilizer to get through the entire fuel system. Change the oil and oil filter on the engine and the generator prior to storage. Acids accumulate in used oil and can corrode engine bearings, especially while sitting for long periods of time. If possible exercise the generator for at least two hours every month with a minimum of a ½ rated load on it. Consult your generator owner's manual for load ratings.

In my next article I will discuss how to prepare the RV plumbing system for the cold winter months.

2006 Home Sellers Energy Inefficiencies Can Sour Buyers

Do's

--Provide the last three months electric and natural gas/heating oil bills. Buyers appreciate pro-active sellers providing these costs without asking. Buyers can usually can energy history from utility companies.

-Be honest about how you set the temperature in your home. If you blast your furnace for a new baby or practice conservation let buyers know. Disclose that you have turned the thermostat down on the hot water or pool heater too.

-If you have your pool opened up for showings and have a solar cover, let buyers know. Pool energy costs are a second-tier energy expense to buyers.

-Install a programmable thermostat if you don't already have one. Buyers look for this telltale sign of energy-awareness .

--Make readily available manuals from energy star appliances (appliances that significantly exceed the minimum national efficiency standards). Save yellow energy use labels from furnaces, hot water heaters and appliances.

-Inform buyers that you have solar-energy systems. Buyers might miss these systems while taking in other features of your home on their first visit.

-Disclose active or abandoned buried oil storage tanks. Most state residential property disclosure laws require sellers to inform buyers of the location, size and age of tanks.

-Display furnace and air-conditioning service histories. Buyers love to see maintenance records.

-Verify that all radiators valves work properly. Buyers love the even heat from this old system but want to know that they can control heat levels. Buy radiator valve keys at the local hardware store.

-Provide receipts from recent insulation or window replacement projects. Highlight special features such a double glazing and low-e coatings.

-Reports from energy audits on your home completed by your utility company.

Don'ts

- Forget to replace your furnace filter once a month. Home inspectors and home shouldn't discover filthy filters. Ditto water filters in your refrigerator and sink. Check dryer and range-hood filters too.

-Cover windows and doors with plastic sheeting. Buyers want to see views and use doors on property tours. Plastic coated windows looks like a energy band-aid. Boomers remember the coated couches and lamp shades.

-Pile straw bales around the foundation. Buyers consider this a quick fix for problem crawlspaces.

-Close all the blinds to save air-conditioning costs when showing your home. You won't sell your house if it is dark and closed up for property showings or buyers have to fumble in the dark for lights.

-Remember to vacuum floor vents and ventilation supply ductwork. Many a homebuyer has moved-on from pet-hair tumbleweed coming from the bowels of a heating system.

-Leave exhaust vents running in bathrooms and kitchens during home showings. They suck the heat out and appear wasteful to buyers.

-Neglect covering window air-conditioners in the off season. Drafty air-conditioning units aren't a selling plus and emit outside noises . Don;t forget to clean filters on window units.

-Ignore installing storm windows during heating season. Buyers need to see that you have storm windows for maximum heat retention. Make the screens visually available. Buyers always ask about them and sometimes verify the number matches window and door count.

-Disregard build up of dust on refrigerator and freezer coils. Move appliances out and vacuum before listing your home . Mr. and Ms. clean-obsessed buyer might question overall home maintenance at a home inspection if they discover excessive debris around refrigerators and freezers.

Taking Good Care of a Brand New Freezer

Freezers are one of the most utilized kitchen appliances in homes, yet many of us don't know how to correctly and regularly maintain them. It is crucial that you fully understand and read all the instructions provided in your installation manual so you will always keep your freezer in tip top shape.

For the internal mechanisms to run efficiently it is important to keep your freezer in a dry place and away from sources of heat for example heat vents. It can be also crucial to keep the unit away from constant and direct sunlight. Always make sure that the freezer sits on level ground to make certain that the freezer door opens and closes without obstructions.

To help keep your unit energy efficient and running at its best, never keep the doors open for extended periods of time. When the cold air leaks out your freezer will work twice as hard to try and cool its inside area towards the set temperature. If you need to access your frozen foods frequently you might be far better off getting a top-down freezer or even an undercounter freezer. One more factor you can do is to thoroughly clean the door seals on a regular basis to help prevent the loss of cold air.

Did you know that overstocking your fridge or freezer will decrease its efficiency greatly. It's not recommended that you simply fill your unit to the brim, though keeping an almost empty freezer isn't a great idea either. Keeping the unit half to three quarter full can help it to remain cool a lot easier.

1 other thing that individuals don't do very frequently, or forget to do is getting the freezer defrosted at least once a year. Whenever you noticed that the frost builds up to more than a couple of inches then it's time for a defrost. Although you're defrosting the freezer, give it a clean with some washing detergent and water the same time. To get rid of bad smells, it is possible to use some baking soda solution to clean the inside walls, this works rather well in most cases.

Most instruction manuals will tell you that keeping the condenser coils thoroughly clean is important as part of the unit's regular maintenance. You can very easily do this yourself by cleaning out the dust buildup using a vacuum cleaner. Doing so once every three months ought to suffice.

Rusting of the internal coils can be the biggest killer of freezers. Whenever you go on a long holiday it's not advisable for you to unplug the unit for extended periods (1 to 2 weeks). The rusting of the condenser coils is due to the melting of the internal ice crystals.

In the event that you lose electricity within your house for a few days, the most effective thing to do is to keep your freezer doors closed until the blackout passes. If the door seals are intact, the unit itself is capable of keeping your food frozen for close to several days. Wrapping a thick blanket around the unit will help as well.

How to Remove Popcorn Ceiling Texture? (Residential)

Removing popcorn ceiling texture can be less of a chore with the proper tools and techniques. You can also save a decent amount of money if you plan to do-it-yourself. This article describes the proper procedures required to remove popcorn texture as well as getting the ceiling prepared for a new texture or a smooth finish.

Required Tools & Materials:

Eye Protection such as goggles

Dust Mask

Pump Sprayer bottle: Typically found in the lawn and garden department at your local home improvement store. ($15-$30ea)

Plastic Sheeting: To be placed over floors and furniture as necessary ($10-$30)
8" or 10" Drywall taping knife: Located in the drywall section of your home improvement store.
($4-$7 ea.)

Lightweight Drywall Joint Compound (It's typically in a box and is ready to use out of the box):
Located in the drywall section of your home improvement store. ($5-$9 ea.)

Popcorn Texture Removal:

Step 1 - Lay plastic sheeting over all flooring, furniture, and cover all doorways to help prevent the spread of dust. This is an extremely dusty and messy project. No matter how much plastic sheeting you lay down or hang in doorways, the dust will still travel throughout the house. So, your goal is to contain as much as possible. It is highly recommended that you remove as much furniture and belongings from the work area as possible because they will get dusty.

Step 2 - Fill your pump sprayer with water and spray the ceiling starting with about a 6'x6' area. Let the water penetrate the texture for several minutes. NOTE: if the ceiling was painted with a semi-gloss or gloss paint, spraying water on it will not work sense it will not be able to penetrate the texture. In this situation, you will have to dry scrape as much of the texture off as possible and float (or skim coat) the entire ceiling with a drywall mud compound to smooth it out.

Step 3 - After the popcorn texture has absorbed the water, use your 8" or 10" drywall knife and scrape the texture off letting it fall to the floor on your plastic sheeting. All of the texture may not come off. This is normal. But, you should be able to get a majority of it removed.

Step 4 - Once all or most of the texture has been removed, use your drywall knife and some lightweight drywall joint compound to spread a thin (1/16" to 1/8") skim coat over any rough spots or areas on the ceiling that may need to be smoothed out. Let the compound dry which can take several hours to 24 hours depending on how thick it is applied as well as the room temperature. The colder it is, the longer it will take to dry.

Step 5 - Once the drywall compound fully dries, sand smooth all areas where you applied the compound. Apply additional skim coats and sand as necessary to obtain a smooth finish.

Step 6 - You can leave the ceiling smooth after completing your skim coats and begin painting. Or you can have the ceiling textured by a Professional. I would recommend you have a Professional take over from here since it requires various texture spraying equipment (i.e. compressor, texture hopper, & texture gun) and someone experienced in spraying or applying textures.

Safety First: Please note that there are some safety concerns when performing this work.
1) Some drywall muds and textures installed in buildings built before 1980 may contain asbestos and buildings built before 1978 may have paint that contains lead. Removing popcorn ceiling texture creates a very dusty work environment, and when the ceiling texture is removed, these lead and asbestos materials will be released in the air. Please consult with your local licensed lead and asbestos abatement contractor prior to starting the work, for testing and/or for abatement.

2) For additional questions regarding lead exposure, please review the "Renovate Right" pamphlet produced by the EPA. epa.gov/lead/pubs/renovaterightbrochure.pdf

3) A dust mask does not qualify as approved personal protective equipment when removing drywall mud and/or textures that contain lead and asbestos.

4) Additionally, do not attempt to remove the popcorn texture if young children or pregnant women are present or living in the house if lead and/or asbestos is a concern.

Cheers!

Air Sealing Tips For the Home

Air sealing is a low cost, do it yourself project that can save you up to 20% on your heating and cooling costs according to the Environmental Protection Agency. Some homeowners are concerned with making the home to tight. This is unlikely in an older home. If you are concerned with the air quality, hire a home energy rater to test your home.

We will start in the attic and work our way down the house and to the exterior.

Attic

Seal penetrations in the wall plates -- Move back the insulation enough to expose the wall plates. Seal around wires and pipes with caulk or spray foam such as Great Stuff. This is a good place to use a fire rated caulk or foam product. In most areas it is required for new construction. Check with your local code official. Caulk both sides of the wall plate where it meets the drywall or plaster with latex caulk.

Chases should be properly sealed off and were almost always left open in older homes allowing air to easily pass though. Use plywood or drywall to cap off the chase. Cut around wires and pipes as close as possible and seal the remaining voids with caulk or spray foam.

Attic hatches - These are often a big loss of air in the home. Install an attic tent or build a box out of foam insulation board to cover the hatch. The high r foam with a foil face works the best. Use a foil face mechanical tape to hold the box together. Do not use duct tape. It will come apart in time. Also use a foam weatherstrip around the hatch door when possible. If your home has a whole house fan, build a box for it too when its not in use.

Living Space

Electrical boxes -- Caulk switch and receptacle boxes. Turn off the circuit breaker and test to be sure the power is off. Remove the wall plate with a screwdriver and caulk between the box and the drywall with latex caulk. Install a foam weatherstrip gasket and replace the wall plate. Use a damp rag to clean up any excess caulk from the wall. Turn the circuit breaker back on.

Plumbing pipes -- Check under all sinks where the pipes go through the wall. Slide back the escutcheons (trim plate) and seal around the water and drain pipes with caulk or spray foam.

Heating and cooling registers -- Remove the grill with a screwdriver and caulk or spray foam between the duct work and the drywall or flooring material. Replace the grill.

Dryer vent -- Caulk or spray foam between the metal pipe and the drywall.

Basement/Crawlspace

Seal penetrations in wall plates -- Same as in the attic.

Chases -- Same as in the attic.

Sill plates -- Seal where the sill plate meets the foundation with caulk or spray foam.

Exterior

Seal penetrations in the siding -- Caulk around electrical wires and conduits, hose bibs and air conditioning line sets with a good quality siding or window and door caulk.

Windows and doors - Inspect around windows and doors for breaks in the caulking. Use a good quality latex or window and door caulk.

Caulking

Latex -- water clean up, paintable, usually white or clear.

Silicone -- difficult to clean up, usually not paintable, comes in white, clear, brown and other colors.

Fire retardant -- use at fire stopping locations such as sealing penetrations in wall plates or chases.

Spray Foams

Standard -- great for sealing voids around pipes and wires.

Window and door -- less expansion, prevents binding of windows and doors due to the foam over expanding and pressing on the jambs.

Fire retardant -- use at fire stopping locations such as sealing penetrations in wall plates or chases.

Spray foams can be messy! Use caution when applying. Allow it several hours to cure before trimming away excess. Very stick until cured.

Do not seal: weep holes (in brick and windows and doors including storm windows), the bottom edge of lap siding, attic or foundation vents.

Advice For Damp Homes

Is your home damp?

A damp house can encourage mould growth and mites which can increase the risk of illness. Here are some tips to identify the causes and what to do.

Water ingress

Damp caused by water penetrating from outside has a couple of tell tale signs. Firstly water penetrating through brickwork will extract the salts and leave a white deposit called efflorescence. Secondly a leak will leave a tide mark. As the problem gets worse further ring marks will appear. It is a good idea to mark the outer ring and monitor to see how it progresses. Often it takes several attempts to solve a leak as water can travel in unusual routes.

If either of these signs are apparent check for obvious causes such as a leaking or blocked gutter/downpipe, objects stacked against the external wall bridging the damp proof course, leaking pipes, dripping overflows, damage to roof or missing tiles. If fixed quickly there will be less damage to the fabric of the building. For more serious problems or no obvious signs get an expert in. If you suspect the damp proof course is damaged or there is not one advice from a damp-proofing specialist will be required.

Condensation

A common cause of damp is condensation. Condensation occurs when moisture in the air hits a cold surface and condenses. This is why it is more a problem in cold weather. Signs of condensation are mould growth in the corners of a room, around windows, behind wardrobes/cupboards, above cookers and baths and sometimes on north facing walls.

It is essential to treat any mould existing first. Wash off mould with a fungicidal wash following the manufacturers instructions. Bleach can also be used but may damage surfaces and care is required not to get it on the skin. Do not brush or vacuum up mildew as is will disturb the spores. Always dry clean clothes and shampoo carpets.

Redecorate surfaces with a quality fungicidal paint to help reduce mould reoccurring.

The only way to reduce condensation is to follow three simple steps.

1. Reduce moisture produced.

2. Insulate

3. Ventilate

There are very simple ways to reduce moisture in the home by simply changing our lifestyle. These tips will make a big difference to the moisture produced in the home.

o Vent tumble dryers (unless self condensing)

o Dry washing outside. If this is not possible hang washing up in the bathroom and leave a window open

o Try not to use portable gas heaters as they add more moisture in the air

o Cover saucepans when cooking.

o Do not leave a kettle to continuously boil.

If a home is warmer it reduces the likeliness of condensation. Insulation and draughtproofing is the most effective way of helping to keep your home warm and save money on our heating bills. Home improvements such as secondary or double glazing will reduce heat loss but you must ensure that windows are fitted with trickle vents. Cavity wall and loft insulation are also very effective. Check with you local council to se if any grants are available, pensioners and low income families usually receive substantial grants. There are companies that will carry out works on a grant scheme. In very cold weather low background heating on all day will help keep the fabric of the building warm and reduce moisture condensing on cold spots. Here are some essential tips of what not to do:

o Do not draughtproof the kitchen or bathroom

o Do not completely block up chimneys (always fit an air brick or grill)

o Do not block up ventilators

o Do not cover eaves ventilators when laying loft insulation

o Do no forget to draughtproof the loft hatch

It is possible to ventilate your home without making it draughty. Here are a few tips:

o If windows have trickle vents do use them. If your windows don't look into the cost of fitting them.

o Leave a gap between the back of furniture and an external wall. Where possible position furniture on internal walls.

o Open kitchen and bathroom windows and close the door when in use. If you have an extractor fan please use them they are very cheap to run. If you don not have an extractor fan in these rooms consider fitting them.

o When in a room open a small window.

o If the condensation is worse in the loft or ceiling below check the eaves ventilators are not blocked. If none are fitted consider fitting some. Some eaves ventilation systems are hard to spot so close inspection is required. Always check what material a soffit is made from before purchasing a ventilator as some soffits in older houses are made from asbestos.

If you approach reducing condensation from the three simple steps you should find a dramatic difference. If no improvements are made seek professional advice.

Filterless Air Purifiers - Cleaning The Air With Less Work For You

Filterless air purifiers are a relatively new invention in the air filter market. These air cleaners have templates inside them, each with an opposite charge, to attract dust and dirt from the air. The charged particles then stick to the plates inside the air purifier. Cleaning is simple; you merely wipe them off or quickly immerse them in slightly soapy water (depending on the model) and swish them around until they become clean again. You then let these plates air dry and reinsert them so they can go back to work, with no disposable filters to replace. In some cases, the purifiers also have ionization pins that should be gently cleaned with a Q-tip and alcohol. Again, they should be allowed to dry so that there is no chance of electric shock or other hazard once they're turned on.

Filtration systems are becoming more necessary with things such as air pollution, dust and dander in our homes become more and more prevalent. With new construction going up every day, homes are becoming ever closer together, and cars on the road increase pollutants in the air as well. Asthma and allergies are also more prevalent these days than in years past. Therefore, air purifiers can help greatly reduce pollutants in the air inside your home, and make it both easier and more pleasant to breathe while reducing congestion or allergy symptoms.

Fairly recently, HEPA air filters were state-of-the-art in the air filter industry. Now, however, filterless systems are becoming more popular. They are cheaper and easier to operate, seldom break down, have no expensive, hard to find disposable filters to replace, and perhaps most importantly, are almost silent in their operation. This is especially important if the air filter is in a location such as your bedroom where you need quiet in order to sleep.

Also relatively recently, these filterless systems were very expensive, even if they were of high quality. Now, however, they have become less costly as competition has brought prices down. This means that a filterless unit is very affordable, and doesn't cost any more than one with a filter does. It also generally lasts quite a bit longer since there are no moving parts to break down.

You can buy purifiers that supposedly filter the air in up to 1000 square feet of space, or smaller room-sized ones that generally cover about 250 square feet. Even though it may seem like a good idea to buy one central filter that covers up to 1000 square feet, it's generally more cost-effective and efficient to buy smaller ones. This is because airflow does not go around corners, through walls, etc., particularly well. Therefore, your air is going to be cleaner and it's going to be filtered more efficiently if you buy smaller units and place them strategically throughout your home. In general, you should buy one unit for about every 250 square feet in your home. For the best results you should place one in each "enclosed" room such as a bedroom, while a large open space such as a combination living room/dining room may only need one unit for the entire space, depending on how large it is.

There has been some concern over the ionization process for some of these filterless air purifiers because of the small amount of ozone they produce, but if this is a concern for you, most of these systems have separate controls so that the ionization process can be turned off. The choice is up to you. Regardless, however, filterless units can save you a lot of money both in energy consumption and filter replacement costs, and may actually be even more efficient than those with filters.

Home Insurance - It's a Rat Race

What is a rat? Is it a cute, furry animal which makes a good pet, or a vile disgusting vermin? Or is it just yet another insurance risk?

At this time of year, it would appear so. As the weather gets colder and the first frosts begin, wild rats cannot rely on food supplies from household waste any longer. The UK rat population is seeking warmth, security and food inside our homes instead. This means that, because of a rat's natural instinct to gnaw, householders are finding bricks, joists, furniture and even wiring and pipes are being chewed.

Aside from the aggravation and cost in fixing these problems, it's also becoming apparent that these furry fiends are causing fires and even explosions in the homes they're feasting on. An 80 year old grandmother had her gas pipes chewed through by rats and subsequently died after an explosion in her home caused by leaking gas. While this is an extreme case, it's still a very real risk and householders are urged to check their pipes and wiring thoroughly for signs of rat infestation.

It's estimated that rats and mice are responsible for around 7 percent of household fires as well as structural damage and damage to household contents. If you have home insurance you may think that you'll be covered if you have to claim because of rodent interference, but in most cases you won't be able to. The majority of insurers will not pay out for a house fire or other damages claim if it's discovered that the cause was rodent damage.

So this winter, take some precautions to ensure you're not affected by ratties. Setting rodent traps can be effective, as can sonic plug-ins which deter rodents by emitting a high-pitched noise. Check all round your house for possible entry points such as drains, dryer vents etc., and seal up if possible. Rodents are mostly attracted by food so make sure all household kitchen scraps are sealed up tight - double-bagging if necessary. You can even pour a small amount of bleach inside the bags to disguise the food odours.

25 Top Gas Grills Compared

All too often consumers seeking a high end stainless steel gas grill are won over by a manufacturer's reputation, the look of the grill or other factors such as recommendations from friends or family. Now, this is a fairly large investment, as appliances go, and consulting an expert in the field could help in making an informed decision. A reliable gas grill specialist can help you evaluate the various features found in these high end grills and quide you to the best choice for the features you prefer.
The simplest way to compare the manufacturers objectively, of course, is with a chart! Our chart compares Fire Magic, Alfresco, Kenmore Elite, Viking, DCS, Dacor, Lynx, Vintage, Weber Summit Gold D, Wolf, Altima, Turbo, ProFire, Phoenix, Tec, Solaire Infrared, Vieluxe, Lazy Man, Jenn Air, Holland, FrontGate, Capitol, Crown Verity, Ducane and Dynasty.

Some of the features on the chart are:

*BTU Output: How many burners, and how many BTUs are standard?
You'll need to do some math to determine the actual heat your food will receive. Ideally, you want to have over 95 BTU's per square inch of cooking surface. How will you know? Take your total BTU's and divide it by the primary cooking surface. So.... if your cooking surface is 660 square inches and the total BTU's are 104,000 then 104,000 BTU's divided by 660 square inches = 157 BTU's per square inch. That would be a winner!!!

*Temperature Range: This is a very important characteristic if you like to do a variety of cooking. You'll be able to do everything from searing steaks to baking pizza with a
large temperature range.

*Burner material can consist of cast stainless steel, stainless steel sheet metal, cast iron, infra-red and even cast brass, which is used in commercial settings. Dual burners allow for indirect cooking and better heat control. Cast brass or cast stainless burners are your best bet. They will last longer and are more durable. Grease tends to burn through sheet metal easily.

*Infra-Red Burners are an option for those who demand a well seared steak. Thinking of an infra-red cooking system? Temperatures on an infra-red cooking system can reach up to 1600 degrees on some grills. Infra-red cooking allows for quick, high temperatures, which cuts cooking time and helps seal in juices -- perfect for searing a steak. If blackened food or steaks are your taste preference - infra-red cooking is the way to go. If you plan on conventional cooking -- go with a hybrid that offers infra-red and standard burners. Tip - make sure you can convert infra-red burners back to standard for large parties.

*Rotisserie backburners are a popular option. Used to cook large pieces of meat evenly, rotisseries use a lot less heat than normal grilling. BTU ranges generally range in the 13-15,000 category but the best grills offer 18-28,000 BTUs. Meats cooked using a rotisserie are generally juicier, self-basted and slow roasted. Tip - look for a model with a drip tray to make cleanup easier. Be sure to compare available rotisserie space, especially if you want to roast a turkey or two.

*A Triple Gourmet Grill allows you to use gas, infra-red AND charcoal cooking! How versatile can you get!!

*An adjustable smoker box is perfect for those who enjoy the added flavor of hickory, mesquite or other wood to your meats. It makes smoking easy. Adjustable vents allow you to control the amount of smoke flavor to provide just the right taste.

*Warranty is one of the most important features to consider. Only the best grills offer a warranty against a condition called burn through which affects the burners.

*Does the grill you are considering offer a countertop model? These types of gas grills can be dropped into an outdoor kitchen which can be customized with your choice of tile, stucco or other solid surfaces, doors, drawers and other accessories like refrigerators or sinks.

*Cooking Grids: Stainless steel cooking surfaces won't rust or chip. Porcelain cooking surfaces tend to chip and could flake off into food. No N.S.F. (National Sanitation Federation) affiliates use porcelain cooking grids.

*Cooking Grid Size: How many people do you regularly feed? The size of your crowd will determine how big your grill should be. Tip - make sure you can convert infra-red burners back to standard for large parties.

*Inner Liner: This accessory radiates heat more evenly to grill, directs dripping to tray and separates the valve and manifold from combustion chamber. This will prolong the life of your burners and reduce the chances of a grease fire. The grill hood covers the cooking surface and assists in trapping the heated air inside. Look for a double insulated wall hood. If you're buying a stainless steel model, with a double insulated wall hood, it won't turn a brown or blue hue. It will keep it's shine.

*Stainless Steel Flavor Grids: This heat distribution system should be stainless steel for long life and durability. Flavor grids reflect all the heat up toward the grilling surface
and vaporizes drippings. You can add wood chips and other flavor enhancers to your flavor grids to add some zest to your choice of meat.

*Fuel Conversion: Will your grill easily convert from natural gas to propane if you want to move it from the back yard to the street for a block party?

*Side burners provide versatility giving you separate controls for each burner. Side burners offer you additional cooking options and come with single or double burners. You
can fry up some french fries or treat the team to sweet corn. The BTUs range from 12-17,000, but be sure to look for cast brass or cast stainless burners.

More Great Options:

*A power/wok burner will give you even more cooking diversity. Saute onions or boil lobsters! Brown butter or deep fry a turkey! Having a party? A power burner can
accommodate a 26" wok! With a range of 3,000 - 60,000 Btu's, the power burner is a definite advantage for any cook!

*A full sear plate or briquette tray (which can also be filled with lava rocks or wood chips) under the cooking surface protects burners and allows for drippings to smolder which gives foods more flavor. Look for a model that will quickly flash the drippings eliminating flare-ups.

*Adding a warming rack will keep food warm and away from direct heat and also give you extra cooking space.

*Add a griddle to your side burner and enjoy breakfast alfresco!

Armed with this information, you should be able to define your needs and choose a grill that will give you many years of great food and good times. Enjoy!

Ironing Tips - How to Make the Job So Much Easier

Unless we can afford to pay for an outside laundry service, the following ironing tips can greatly help make ironing a less arduous task. Just look them over quickly and see if there is something you can learn to speed up your ironing and improve the results.

Here are the best ironing tips:

Move the fabric away from you not toward you as you iron, to avoid needless creasing.

Improve the results of your ironing by reflecting more heat. Do this by putting a sheet of aluminum foil (shiny side up) between your ironing board and the ironing board cover. Alternatively, purchase a metal coated ironing board cover.

Certain fabrics such as viscose, dark fabrics, acetates, and wash and wear fabrics in general, should be ironed on the reverse side to avoid giving a shine.

One of the best money saving ironing tips is to make your own starch solution if you need to use a spray starch on certain fabrics. Simply dissolve 1 tablespoon of cornstarch in 2 cups of water, pour the solution into a spray bottle, and voila, you have your own spray starch.

Some ironing boards come with a sleeve board attachment, ideal for shirts and blouses. If you don't have one, roll up a towel and insert it in the sleeve before ironing.

Some thick fabrics need ironing on both sides. Be sure to iron the inside first and the outside last.

Take a moment to sort your laundry before starting to iron so you have a pile of garments needing low temperature and graduate to the garments needing a higher temperature, adjusting the thermometer on your iron progressively.

Don't iron dirty clothing or stained clothing. It can make it difficult to remove the stain afterwards as it becomes set in the fabric.

After ironing shirts, put them on hangers and then fasten the top and center buttons. The shirt will then hang straight and your ironing efforts will last!

For large items like tablecloths or bedsheets, put layers of newspaper out on a large table, cover them with a sheet and place the tablecloth or bedsheet on top to iron.

When choosing an ironing board, get one with a wide end. It is easier and quicker to iron on this extra surface with less strokes and doesn't require moving the fabric so often.

For shirts, iron them when slightly damp. If they have dried to much, spray them with a little water.

Shirts can be the bane of your life, so work out a sequence that suits you and stick to it. For many, the following procedure works well although there are many individual preferences: shoulders and collar, cuffs, sleeves, right front, back, left front.

In Summary

These are some of the best ironing tips to make the job easier. However, the internet is a wonderful research tool and this is true when it comes to finding good ironing tips. In the age of video it is possible to find web sites with a variety of videos containing ironing tips for all kinds of garments. Simply type "ironing videos" into your favorite search engine and start watching. (Be sure to include the quotes for better search results)

Just taking 20 minutes or so to research ironing tips can change the whole nature of this laborious job into one you walk through quickly and efficiently!

How To Fix a Frost - Free Refrigerator That Is Leaking Water

A common problem with some frost free refrigerators is water leakage out of the refrigerator. This mystery problem leads to puddles in the bottom of the refrigerator and on the floor in front of it. Seems like a pretty strange thing for a frost free refrigerator to experience. What could be causing it, and what to do about it?

That kind of fridge periodically goes through a defrost cycle. The blower goes off, the compressor goes off, and a heater comes on in the freezer. This melts the frost off the evaporator coil and the resulting water runs down a drain that is located in the back of the freezer under the freezer covers.

Down the drain...

Except that if the freezer has not been kept scrupulously clean, stuff can get under the covers and block that drain. In this case, the water backs up and freezes. Then it builds up. Eventually, the ice in the freezer under the cover has reached the point where, when the defrost cycle comes on, the water runs out into the refrigerator portion.

Mid sized Kelvinators and White-Westinghouse refrigerators are particularly susceptible to this problem, although I have seen it in other brands.

To solve the problem you have to take the covers off inside the freezer. Chip out the ice, and clean out the drain.

Some people have had success with wrapping a copper wire around the heater in the freezer and directing the end of that wire down the drain. The idea is that the copper wire will divert extra heat to the drain opening during the defrost cycle, and this will help prevent the formation of the ice plug which ultimately causes the backup. Also, the wire sticking down into the drain acts to keep objects that have migrated through the vents (thing like onion skins, or small pieces of paper or plastic) from the freezer from completely covering the drain and blocking it.

How to Substantially Cut Your Energy Bills

Look In The Attic: Attic insulation is taken for granted many homeowners think they're covered when they're not. A well insulated attic will afford you a substantial savings on your heating costs. Make a trip to your attic with a ruler/yard stick in hand, check the thickness of your insulation if the insulation under the rafters is six inches thick or less, you need to adjust your R-value. R-value is a rating of resistance to heat flow; higher numbers signal a better ability to protect against heat transfer. Most attics need an R-value of 38 or more, which typically translates into at least a foot of insulation, (check with a local insulation retailer for the proper coverage in your area). Because colder climes need more protection, recommended R-values vary across the country, so find out how much insulation you need (or log onto simplyinsulate.com). New insulation isn't cheap, but compare to what you loose in heating cost each year, it will pay for itself in no time, and it can lower heating and cooling costs by 25 percent in a single year. And don't forget, that starting in 2006, you can get up to $500 in federal tax credits for insulating your home (for more information, go to energy.gov and click on The Energy Bill and You).

Where Is That Air Coming From: Replacing old windows with airtight ones may also qualify you for that tax break and can cut heat loss from your home in half. But, if you can't afford to buy new windows this year there are some cheaper alternatives that can still save you up to 10 percent annually. Check for leaks around windows and doors by holding a lit candle (you can also buy power/smoke tester at your local retailer) in front of your window if the flame flickers, you need to find the leak and seal it. For an easy fix, apply peel-and stick weather stripping, available at any hardware store. If you have some really leaky windows consider buying a plastic insulation kit (they sell anywhere from $3 to $8) now your window will not will the Better Home & Gardens Award, but it'll block the cold and reduce your heating costs. Easy solution...

Fill Those Gaps: Getting rid of leaks can save you $$ on your annual heating bill. You should do a whole house inspection not just windows and doors. Holes, gaps around pipes, cracks, dryer vents, fixtures, and outside outlets can be a substantial source of heat loss, take a look around the house fill in any cracks with silicone or acrylic caulks. For larger cracks/ spaces (more than a half inch) use a spray-type sealant-a can of latex foam filler it will do the job nicely. (Don't forget that the foam will expand as it dries, so don't go over board filling the gaps).

Duct Those Joints: It's funny how most of us use duct tape for everything, but its intended purpose. You know the heating/cooling ducts that run through the basement, attics and crawl spaces. Well grab that duct tape by tapping off all those seams and leaks you can find will keep your heated/cooled air from escaping in turn your heating/cooling system will not have to work as hard. The results you can shave several degrees off your thermostat setting and still feel just as warm. The Department of Energy estimates that leaky ducts can increase heating and cooling costs by hundreds of dollars a year. (Lots of money to be saved here)

Get Your Degree: Lowering your water heater's setting from a very HOT 140 degree Fahrenheit to a just HOT enough 120 degrees can save you nearly $50 a year. You can save another 10 percent by wrapping your hot water tank in a $15/$20 insulating blanket. To be on the safe side, check with the heater's manufacturer to see if your unit can be wrapped (A word of caution, insulating blankets are not recommended for gas heater.)

My Feet Are Cold: Do you sit in your favorite room reading or watching TV and your feet get cold you can feel that cold air. "Well Let's Stop It". Rooms can lose heat through electrical outlets and light switches on outside walls, because the spaces behind them are usually un-insulated. To solve the problem, make a trip down to the local hardware supplier and pick up some precut outlet gaskets, they cost only a few dollars per eight-pack. They are fairly easy to install, (Do read the direction before starting.). Simply remove the screw from the outlet plate, fit the insulating foam gaskets on the back of the outlet cover, and replace it. Repeat for the switch covers as well. Pretty Easy...

Know Watt's - Watt: One easy cost savings is to replace your light bulbs with new compact fluorescents (CFLs) they use almost 75 percent less energy than conventional incandescent bulb providing 100 watts of illumination for only 32 watts of power. They will vary depending on what watt bulb you purchase. Replacing just five of your most frequently used bulbs with fluorescents can lower your electric bill by more than $50 annually.

Up-Grade Those Appliances: New model washers, refrigerators, and other home appliances that sport the Environmental Protection Agency's Energy Star insignia are major energy savers. Next time you're at Lowe's, Home Depot or your favorite appliance store, take a look. I know we have all seen them one time or the other, but we probably never really bothered to read them, take a look. The average Energy Star appliance uses up to 50 percent less energy than one made a decade ago. That translates into substantial savings on your electric bill about $20 in annual operating costs for a dishwasher, $55 for a fridge, and a whopping $110 for a washing machine.

Damper it Down: Ah!! Sitting down in front of a nice fire is a great way to relax and get warm, but in the long run it usually will not save you any money on heating dollars. In fact, they could go up in smoke if you fail to close the damper once the fire has gone out. If you feel a chill in front of your fireplace when it's not in use check to make sure the damper is fully closed. If it is, and you still feel a draft your damper may not seal properly, get your damper checked by a professional in the office season. Consider installing a set of glass doors they help save on energy and look great too.

Where's Honey: Lowering your thermostat by roughly 10 percent (for instance, from 73 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit) for eight hours a day can save approximately 10 percent off your heating bill. There is another very inexpensive way to stay warm merely adding a sweater or additional article of clothing, but for most this is not appealing at all. This one can even perk up your marriage or relationship, before going to bed turn down the thermostat and cuddle under a down comforter or an electric blanket.

Flip The Fan: Here's another great heat saver, did you know that by reversing your ceiling fan in the winter can actually keep you warm for less. It will re-circulate warm air which rises to the ceiling, recycling heat back into the room (try the lowest setting). The fan costs only pennies a day to operate-and for every degree it allows you to turn down the thermostat you should save and estimated 5 percent on your total heating bill. And you though that fan was just for those hot muggy nights!

Energy Audits Are Good: Try the Home Energy Saver program at http://hes.lbl.gov it lets you plug in information about your home's age, square footage, and other details to gauge its energy efficiency. Or you can check with your local energy supplier and ask them to conduct heat-loss checks via infrared cameras and blower door testing. (Check on the cost as they will vary from state to state) Usually, an energy audit costs from $25 to $400, and some energy companies offer free audits for low-income households.

Hope this will help you to save, on your Heating and A/C costs in the future.

Author

Mike Pulli

Why is My Dryer Not Heating?

CAUTION: Most electric dryers use 220 volts to power the heating element. Always disconnect the dryer power cord from the wall receptacle before doing any tests or repair work.

Here are some tips.

Check the fuses
If you have an electric dryer, the first thing to check are the fuses or breakers in your homes fuse box. If this fuse is blown, it is possible for your dryer to spin but not produce heat. If you've checked the fuses and they are not blown, the next possible cause is the heating element.

Check the heating element
To check the heating element, move the back panel of the dryer. You'll need a volt/ohmmeter to check the element terminal. Locate the element and set the volt/ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale. Remove one lead from the element and then place one probe of the volt/ohmmeter on the terminal of the element. Place the other probe of the volt/ohmmeter on the remaining terminal of the element. Look for a continuity reading of the volt/ohmmeter of approximately 2-5 ohms. If there is no continuity reading, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.

LINT- Your dryer's greatest enemy

To extend the life of your dryer, clean the lint filter every time you use the dryer. Even if the lint filter is cleaned after every load, lint will still accumulate around the dryer's moving parts, the exhaust duct and vent.

Each year inspect the vent pipe and vent cover operation. Disconnect the exhaust duct and remove lint from the internal exhaust pipe, the duct and the vent. Make sure the duct has no kinks, where lint and moisture can build-up.

Turn off the power, remove the front and rear panels and vacuum out the lint from around the motor and idler.Poor air flow uses more energy and can cause lint build-up in the internal ducting, leading to a fire hazard.

I May Be Sexy, But I'm Not a Floor Cleaning Slave

Have you ever wondered why people think you have no other interest in life besides cleaning tile floors? I often wonder about that one each time I go into the kitchen or bathroom, and find that someone has left behind all kinds of tracks, spills, and paw prints. Before I discovered the Swiffer Wet Jet, just the thought of those floors used to make me cringe each time I had to enter a room with a tiled floor.

When I used to commute over 100 miles per day, I rarely noticed the fact that I was the only one mopping up the floors. In fact, one quick lick at night seemed to be plenty. Nevertheless, even if you are constantly on the run, cleaning tiled floors can still take at least a half hour per cleaning. While you may not mind wasting that much time as part of an "end of day" routine, it can certainly grate on your nerves when you have to mop up more often. In fact, if you give it some thought, you will realize that you can all kinds of things with the extra time that you are currently using to mop floors. Even with just 20 minutes extra each day you can start an exercise program, meditate, find online employment, or simply enjoy the sunset.

Many people that first hear of battery operated mops fail to realize just how efficient and useful these gadgets really are. For example, did you know that you will never have to wring out a Swiffer Wet jet? All you will need to do is dispense a little bit of solution and then start mopping with the specially formulated pad. Once the pad gets dirty, you can exchange it for a brand new one. Unfortunately, when you use a conventional mop, you can always count on your hands getting wet and covered with all those disgusting germs that were enjoying their life on your floors.

If you sit down and compare the Swiffer Wet Jet to other mopping options, you will soon realize that this gadget can easily save time, money, and your health. Do you really want to run the risk of getting MRSA or some other disease because you can't properly protect your hands from all the germs on your floor? At the very least, the Swiffer Wet Jet comes with an extremely effective antibacterial floor cleaner, as well as many other benefits. As an added bonus, when you look at the total cost of other cleaning tile floor options, you may even find that you will save money using the Swiffer Wet Jet.

Ways to Fight Bed Bugs Head on

Anybody is a possible victim of bed bugs. No matter how many cleaning processes you implement of preventive steps you carry out, there is still a chance that they get over those and bring you negative results. For that, you will have to learn how to get rid of bed bugs head on.

Though it is true that they can always find a way of infesting your home, still you should not disregard the need to implement preventive steps. Those steps can slim down the chance of their infestation. Big or small may that chance be, its already a big help considering the ill effects that it could prevent.

But as been said, you have to learn how to eliminate bed bugs to prepare yourself in case they got their way into your house. If you won't do anything about them, they could grow in number faster than you might think. As a result, they can deliver you worse of the already ill effects that they can bring.

Apart from learning the things that you can do to get rid of them, you must also know how to implement them effectively. Otherwise, you'll be just wasting resources. More than that, you can also put your home and family at risk.

Going back to those that you can implement to fight the pests head on, here are some of them.

Use pesticides - This is probably the easiest way to eliminate them. You just have to buy one and then spray it on cracks and crevices or where the pests are. The problem though is that conventional pesticides are made of chemicals. And with those toxic, its generally dangerous to use them. There are now organic solutions that can kill the pests the green way so use them instead.
Regularly clean your house - Though cleanliness is not directly associated to their infestation, cleaning helps in its early detection.
Use vacuum - With the use of vacuum, you can contain the bugs. However, see to it that you will be using one with a bag. Then make sure to seal the bag before disposing it.
Wash items in high temperature - Hot washing can kill the said pests. Wash and dry items infested by them in high temperature. Get this step implemented especially to those things you brought from travel.

Given here are just some of what you can do to kill the mentioned pests. Whatever process you choose to implement though, you have to remember to make it effective to fully get rid of bed bugs.

Keep Your Carpets New by Choosing the Best Residential Carpet Cleaner

Carpet cleaners are always handy because they can easily help you to keep your carpets clean and stain free. One thing that bothers the most homeowners after the purchase of a carpet is its cleaning. Cleaning the carpet is a very difficult job and that is why home owners often spend a lot of money to buy a carpet cleaner for their carpets. We all know that how difficult it is to keep your carpet stain free and this job becomes even more difficult when you have children in your home. Using the normal cleaners often work as they are supposed to work and therefore most people buy cleaners or hire them in order to keep their carpets looking as good as new.

When you opt for such things there are many problems that are related to cleaners because first of all it is not very easy to buy a cleaner for your home because there are so many of them available in the market. So the best thing to do is to rent a cleaner and try it on your carpet. But it is also a waste of time and money when you do not know what kind of cleaner would be best for cleaning your carpets.

What if I tell you that you can easily find cleaner that will work best on your carpets? The cleaner can only be found when you know what you are looking for. If you jump in to the market looking for a residential carpet cleaner, you will not be successful. Therefore, it is important that you know what kind of carpet you have so that you can buy an appropriate cleaner for your carpet. This is one of the common mistakes which residential carpet cleaner buyers make because when you do not know what you are looking for then how are you suppose to find the right thing. That is why it is in your best interest that you know what type of carpet you have and what type of cleaner will work best on it. There is an easy way to find all this and that is by searching on the internet.

By doing so you will be able to find out what type of residential carpet cleaner will work best on your carpet. It is the easiest way to find the right residential carpet cleaner to clean your carpets at home so make sure that you do so.

A Fantastic System to Declutter Paper

There is an incredible way to declutter paper.

You get 3 trays and put them on your desk. You label them. The top tray is labeled simply "In Basket" the middle tray is labeled "Pending Basket" and the bottom tray is labeled "Out Basket."

As the mail and other paper comes in they are placed in the top basket the "In Basket." When the time comes for you to deal with the paper and mail you take a piece from the top basket. Now you do one of four things with this piece of paper. You can

Deal with it
Delay it
Delegate it
Or dump it
By the way this is easy to remember because it is called the 4 "Ds."

If you deal with it you put it in the bottom basket the "Out Basket." The out basket is like a distribution basket. This is where you put any out going mail or things that are done but need to be filed away.

The next D is you can delay it. This is stuff that's going to take more time then you have right now so you do what you can with it and you put it in the 2nd basket the "Pending Basket." However before you put it in the pending basket you take a sticky note and you write down what the next step is for the paper. Yes all the paper in the pending basket should have little sticky notes on them stating what the next step is.

The third D is delegate it which is pretty obvious. If you have people working for you, you give it to the proper person. You could put a sticky not on it too with instructions if you think it needs it.

The forth D is dump it in the garbage.

When you are through with the 4 Ds the top basket is now empty, there is paper in the pending basket and the out basket has outgoing mail which you take out to the mail box. And then you start working on the pending until they all get done.

If your office gets a lot of mail or gets a lot of complex paperwork that you have to deal with you can actually use several baskets for your pending system, one may be "Urgent Pending" one may be "Relaxed Pending" or different categories depending on the particular needs of your office. But it's easy because the top will still be "In" and the bottom will still be "Out" with everything in between all "Pending" baskets.

You should never have half done paperwork in a drawer. Partially done paperwork should be in the pending basket with a sticky note on it. You can have the current page that you are actively working on, on your desk top.

That's how you declutter paper. Now let's have some fun and declutter a lot of paper, in fact let's do all the paper in the room. Grab up all the paper on your desk and around the room and put it all in the top basket. Now just do the 4 Ds and you're home free.

Isn't that a fantastic way to declutter paper?

The Toxic Danger of Fabric Softener and Dryer Sheets

Many people will remember a famous TV ad where a woman races to her washing machine, fabric softener in hand, only to arrive just as the wash ends. This woman who "forgot to ad the fabric softener" was actually doing herself and her family a favor.

Although they may make your clothes feel soft and smell fresh, fabric softener and dryer sheets are some of the most toxic products around. And chances are that the staggering 99.8 percent of Americans who use common commercial detergents, fabric softeners, bleaches, and stain removers would think twice if they knew they contained chemicals that could cause cancer and brain damage.

Laundry

Here is a list of just some of the chemicals found in fabric softeners and dryer sheets:

* Benzyl acetate: Linked to pancreatic cancer

* Benzyl Alcohol: Upper respiratory tract irritant

* Ethanol: On the Environmental Protection Agency's (EPA) Hazardous Waste list and can cause central nervous system disorders

* Limonene: Known carcinogen

* A-Terpineol: Can cause respiratory problems, including fatal edema, and central nervous system damage

* Ethyl Acetate: A narcotic on the EPA's Hazardous Waste list

* Camphor: Causes central nervous system disorders

* Chloroform: Neurotoxic, anesthetic and carcinogenic

* Linalool: A narcotic that causes central nervous system disorders

* Pentane: A chemical known to be harmful if inhaled

So how could products with pretty names like Soft Ocean Mist, Summer Orchard and April Fresh be so dangerous?

The chemicals in fabric softeners are pungent and strong smelling -- so strong that they require the use of these heavy fragrances (think 50 times as much fragrance) just to cover up the smells. Furthermore, synthetic fabrics, which are the reason fabric softeners were created in the first place, do not smell good either when heated in a dryer or heated by our bodies ... hence the need for even more hefty fragrances.

In other words, remove all the added fragrance that endears people to fabric softeners and -- like the cliché wolf in sheep's clothing -- the real smells of the chemical-laced fabric softener and the synthetic fabrics they were designed around may prompt people to shoot their laundry machines and be done with it.

Are "Soft" Clothes Worth It?

Fabric softeners are made to stay in your clothing for long periods of time. As such, chemicals are slowly released either into the air for you to inhale or onto your skin for you to absorb. Dryer sheets are particularly noxious because they are heated in the dryer and the chemicals are released through dryer vents and out into the environment. Health effects from being exposed to the chemicals in fabric softeners include:

* Central nervous system disorders

* Headaches

* Nausea

* Vomiting

* Dizziness

* Blood pressure reduction

* Irritation to skin, mucus membranes and respiratory tract

* Pancreatic cancer

Baby Fabric

Soften Your Clothes Safely With These Tips

Even if you don't feel the effects of these chemicals today, they can affect you gradually over time, and children, whose systems are still developing, are particularly at risk. There's really no reason to expose yourself to these risky chemicals when natural alternatives exist. Not only are they safer for you, your family and the environment, but they're much more economical too:

* Add a quarter cup of baking soda to wash cycle to soften fabric

* Add a quarter cup of white vinegar to rinse to soften fabric and eliminate cling

* Check out your local health food store for a natural fabric softener that uses a natural base like soy instead of chemicals

It's likely that fabric softeners and dryer sheets aren't the only toxic products in your home. Many household products that consumers regard as safe are also full of toxic chemicals. Our past articles on PEG Compounds in Cosmetics and Phenols in Common Household Cleansers are two of the all-time most popular articles on SixWise.com and will make you more aware of the pervasiveness of harmful chemicals that can be eliminated from your home.

Downsizing Your Home? 5 Tips For Clearing Out the Clutter

These days people are downsizing their homes for a variety of different reasons. Whatever your reasons for moving to a smaller location, you can de-clutter your stuff and move with less boxes by following these tips.

1. Decide what you absolutely must have

Instead of trying to decide what must be tossed aside in your move, it might be easier to start with what you need to keep. For example, heirlooms, your favorite clothes and kitchen items you use every day would definitely go on your "keep" list. Only after you develop your keep list will you be able to tell if you need to make some sacrifices for your new, smaller space.

2. Organize your items into three categories

After you've decided on your small list of must haves, you need to sort through the rest of your things. One of the most tried and true methods of de-cluttering your home is to create three categories of items - keep, sell and donate. Depending on the size of your new place, you may be eliminating up to half of your items. View your things with a critical eye and if you find yourself putting too much into the keep pile, re-evaluate your decisions.

3. Get a second opinion

Sometimes it may be hard to get rid of things even if you know intellectually that you won't need them. If you are finding it difficult to part with your items, or you are overwhelmed by the whole process ask a trusted friend to help you get clarity on the situation. Alternatively, you can also hire a professional organizer to come in and help you clear out the clutter from your life.

4. Compare the size of your old rooms to your new rooms

When it comes to pieces of furniture, you may not be able to transport everything to your new place. If you have the dimensions for your smaller space, you can use tape on the floor to mark out your new floor plan. Arrange your current furniture within this new boundary and figure out what you'll be able to keep.

5. Don't rush the process

If you think that you need to complete this whole process in a day or two, think again. You should give yourself plenty of time to do an inventory of your things and decide what you must keep and what you need to give away. It will take a lot of time to go through all of your possessions, especially if you've lived in your home for many years. Make it a leisurely process for several weeks or a few months before your move and you'll not only feel more prepared but more relaxed about your move as well.

De-cluttering so you can live comfortably in your new space isn't always easy. However, when you take the time to evaluate what you really need, you'll thank yourself when you can live in your new home comfortably.

The Secret Life of Car Wax, Aluminum Foil and Carpet Scraps

With the emphasis on reducing, reusing and recycling, we tend to concentrate on just the reycling of our garbage. There are so many other opportunities for implementing the 3'r's simply by reusing everyday items. Give some of these ideas a try, and see how many more you can think of.

Carpet Scraps: Give that old carpet a new lease on life by using it in a different way.

When you're moving furniture, put scraps of carpet under the legs (pile-side down) and watch your tables and chairs slide easily across the floor - scratch free! It also works great under washers and dryers to prevent that thumping noise.

Keep some extra carpet in the garage for handy out door uses. The next time your riding mower gets stuck in the mud, just slide a piece of carpet under the wheel to get some extra traction.

Next time you're gardening, laying or washing floors, save your knees by kneeling on a scrap of carpet.

Your pets will find plenty of uses for old carpet. Cozy up a doghouse by lining it with carpet, or make kitty a scratching post or indoor tree by gluing carpet to a post.

Aluminum foil isn't just for the BBQ, check out some of its other handy uses:

Crumpled up foil works great for rubbing off rust on anything from car bumpers to shower curtain rods, or the black grunge off your BBQ grill. For extra tough jobs - cover the entire grill, tuck in the edges, and turn the grill on high for 10-15 minutes. It works like a self-cleaning oven.

Restick loose vinyl floor tile by placing a piece of foil over the tile and ironing it until the heat melts the glue and sticks to the subfloor.

Sharpen your scissors by cutting through a sheet of foil that has been folded several times.

Foil works great for covering door knobs, pulls and hinges while you're painting.

Speed up decomposition in your compost pile during cold weather by covering it with carpet.

A strip of carpet stapled to your garage wall will help bear the brunt of opening car doors and keep them scratch free.

A piece of carpet soaked in warm, soapy water is great for cleaning screens.

Place a sheet of foil in the bottom of a stainless steel sink, add boiling water and a few spoonfuls of baking soda. Place your silver in for a couple minutes and wipe clean. If you don't have a stainless steel sink, this also works by lining a glass pan.

Car wax has so many handy uses, you'll want to make it part of your regular cleaning routine.

Use wax to keep your stainless steel appliances free of fingerprints and other marks. Just apply a thin coat and buff.

Lubricate the hinges of garden shears and scissors to keep them moving freely.

If you have a CD with an annoying skip, just add a small amount of wax and buff it clean, rubbing in the same direction as the scratch. Rinse with water and let air dry.

A think coat of wax applied to brass door knockers, mailboxes, and light fixtures will keep them tarnish free.

Once you've cleaned your shower door, keep the mildew away by applying a layer of wax to the inside and outside of the door and buff clean. In fact, wax applied to the walls of a fibreglass shower will help keep their shine and make clean up a breeze.

A small layer of wax added to your bathroom mirror will prevent condensation build up during a shower.

A dab of wax added to your drawer and window tracks will make them slide with ease.

Add some wax to your car bumper before applying any stickers. When you're ready to remove them, they'll come right off without the need for scraping.

Shoveling that wet snow in the winter is easier with a layer of wax applied to your shovel to prevent sticking.

How to Clean Your Air Ducts

Can you clean your own air ducts? The answer is yes! But, for the DIY'S there is some information you will need to know. There are several methods used to clean air ducts. Most of these methods require special equipment and training! So, there is only so much the DIY'S can do to clean their air ducts. It's more of a partial clean! Also, some air duct cleaning companies will use Biocides or Ozone to rid your ducts of contaminants. Biocides are chemicals that are used to rid your air ducts from bacteria and mold.

Ozone is a gas that is used to kill biological contaminants. Chemical biocides are regulated by the EPA under the Federal Pesticide Law. Any chemical can be dangerous, so do your research or hire a professional! Using chemicals without proper training is not recommended. Also, before cleaning your air ducts it's important to know what type of ducts your home or business has installed.

The most common type is flexible ducts and are typically insulated to conserve energy, reduce condensation and temperature control. Most metal duct work is used for industrial purposes and is typically more expensive. Air duct cleaning is much easier on metal air ducts than flexible ducts. Also, the insulation in flexible duct work is more likely to re-soil with dust and mold. You will need to clean more often. If you choose to clean air ducts yourself here are some tips.

1. Air ducts cannot be cleaned without tools! So, you will need a ladder, screwdriver (look at duct vents to determine), flashlight, wet/dry vacuum with long hose and soft bristle attachment. Also, you need to wear rubber gloves and face mask (respirator) for safety. You do not want to breathe the contaminants from your air ducts. Once you have the proper cleaning equipment then you must examine the ducts for contamination. First, run your finger along the inside of the ducts. If you see dust on your finger then your ducts are dirty. So, proper tools, training and contamination severity are the first thing you need to determine. Once this is complete you can move forward to the cleaning process.

2. First, remove the vent covers from the walls or ceilings. Be careful not to damage the vents or duct work when removing. If there is paint build-up on the vents you can use a putty knife (run around edges of vent) to remove without damage. Next, you need to set-up your vacuum system for cleaning. Most wet/dry vacuums come with several attachments. You want to use the long hose (attach directly to vacuum) and the hard plastic tube (attach to hose) with soft bristle brush to clean your vents.

Turn "on" the vacuum and begin the cleaning process. When cleaning the ducts make sure to clean with ease.....do not clean with force! Use just enough power to break the dust or mold away from the walls of the duct work. Use whatever cleaning pattern works best for you. Be sure to clean all the cracks and crevices (hard to reach places) so you can achieve the best results. You are only going to clean up into the vent so far with the length of hose. So, when there is no more hose to clean with you have gone as far into the duct work as your going to go. This process may take some time!

If you are going to use anti-bacterial solutions to disinfect (spray after the cleaning). Be sure to read the bottle for mixing instructions and "How to Use" on the label. After the ducts are cleaned then you need to clean the vents. A good cleaning solution is bleach and water. You can use the "Rubber Stopper" in your kitchen sink (fill up sink to half) and then add 3 caps of bleach. Use warm or hot water. Let the vents soak for about an hour. Once the vents have soaked to remove debris then dry off and reinstall. Make sure the vents seal correctly around the edges. Next, you need to clean the wet/dry vacuum. Do not use the vacuum again until it's been cleaned!

Read your owner's manual for cleaning instructions. Also, you need to replace the air filters in your system. You can purchase good quality filters from most hardware stores. This process will achieve quality results if done properly.

The Industrial Vacuum Cleaner Can Be Used in Many Different Industries

You'll discover that there are a lot of different lines of work that call for the use of the Industrial Vacuum Cleaners rather than the common vacuum cleaners that you find in the marketplace today. Carpentry businesses, construction businesses, beauty salons, and animal groomers are just a couple of the jobs that should use this type of vacuum. They require the use the heavy vacuum cleaners because they're producing a lot of dust and dirt on a day-to-day basis. It is not comparable to vacuum-cleaning once a week or even twice a week.

These occupations plus a lot of others, use their vacuuming service day-to-day and all day long. These types used to ask to have a vacuum that will endure the constant use in addition to the kind of junk that is being vacuum-cleaned. The Industrial Cleaners that you'll find will be able to gather up much larger items without the whole thing getting clogged. They'll also be able to gather up the fine particles that you'll find in wood and metals that could potentially be irritating if stuck in the surface of your skin.

You'll find that there are many makers of the Industrial Cleaners. A few of these include Shop Vac, Hoover, Oreck, Thermax, ProTeam, Panasonic, Windsor and VacMaster. Shop Vac is a really popular name in the manufacturing of heavy duty cleaners. They have vacuums that range in cost from $30.00 upwardly to $600.00 and even higher. Hoover features the model CH30000 Portapower Lightweight Canister. These models weigh in at 8 pounds and are great in gathering up debris in addition to being used as a blower. It has a non-disposable fabric bag collection arrangement rather than being bagless or bagged.

These Industrial Vacuums from Hoover are really well-situated to carry about because they're very compact. They have a long thirty-three foot electric cord for cleaning a big area. They also satisfy the demands set by OSHA. The included accessories that accompany these heavy vacuum cleaners include a wall or floor brush, crevice tool, dusting brush, rug and floor nozzle, furniture nozzle, two chrome wands, a shoulder strap for comfort in carrying and a storage strap. If you're in the demand for an industrial vacuum, there a lot of brands that will give you the selection to get the vacuum cleaner that will function perfect for the job that you have to do.

Sources of Heat Loss in the House

There are three main sources of heat loss in the house that when fixed may save you up to $500 per year. One source of heat loss that you may not have considered is the fireplace. Some homes have an open fireplace that is certainly just like leaving a window open. Warm air escapes through the chimney, which acts as a funnel, drawing air up and out. Even if you have a firebox installed into your fireplace and the gaps all around sealed, there is still the damper.

The damper creates an airflow without which the fire could not burn, but when there is no fire going, leaving the damper open is like leaving a window open. In fact, you could lose up to 30% of your air conditioning heat through the damper.

Not all houses have an attic, but many do, so if you have access to your attic by means of a folding stair, the ceiling and insulation will have been removed to install it. Frequently it is just covered up by a thin piece of plywood that may even have gaps around the edges. To find out, switch on the attic light at nighttime and view it from below. If you can see specks of light, there are gaps that need closing. In fact, the whole area should be covered with an attic stair cover.

The third place for heat loss is if your clothes dryer exhaust is ducted to an outside opening. Even when the door is shut, warm air can still escape through the clothes dryer. Add a dryer vent seal to solve the problem and keep out bugs as well.

Dyer Vent Cleaning - Prevent a Fire by Cleaning Your Dryer Vent

Did you know--- Only 60% of the lint is captured in the lint trap of residential and commercial clothes dryers. The other 40% is vented outside. Over time, the damp lint accumulates to the inside of the duct. The result is like a clogged pipe that becomes more restricted over time which can cause a fire hazard! According to the National Fire Protection Association, 16,000 fires start in the laundry room each year.

Also, the Consumer Product Safety Commission estimates more than 84.4 million in property damage annually. This is a reality that needs to be taken seriously. The State Fire Marshal recommends that your dryer vent be cleaned or inspected once a year to ensure your safety.

Here are some signs your dryer vent might need cleaning:

If it takes longer than one cycle for your clothes to dry, or the clothes are very hot after drying, this is a good sign your vent needs cleaning.
If the clothes have a musty smell after drying.
If your dryer shuts off or stops during a cycle, the element may be getting too hot from the duct restriction.
If there is a great deal of lint escaping from the back of the dryer.
If the outside vent has lint covering the outside of the vent cover.

Here are the benefits of a clean dryer vent:

Reduce laundry drying times
Avoid dryer element replacement costs
Improve the quality of dried clothes
Save money on utility bills
Prevent a dryer fire!
So, how do you go about cleaning your dryer vent. Here are the steps if you plan to do it yourself.

1. Get the right tools. For this job you will need a shop vac and extension hose of at least 10 to 15 feet, depending on the length of the dryer vent outside to your dryer. Next, you will need a flexible cable with a brush on the end (can be found online) to snake through the duct, and finally, a dust mask and gloves to protect yourself from the airborne lint.

2. Disconnect your dryer from the flexible duct and clean the back of the dryer and any lint that has accumulated under the dryer. Check the flexible duct and replace it with a new one if it is damaged or has holes. The first part of the process will involve running the flexible cable and vacuum from the inside of the house by your dryer. The second part of the process involves the same thing only from the outside by your dryer vent that goes to the outside.

3. Run the flexible snake with brush through the dryer vent duct as far as you can go, be careful not to push past any turns or angles that might cause the cable to get stuck in the ductwork, otherwise you will have a difficult time getting it out. Vacuum out the loose lint with the shop vac and hose. Run the hose as far into the duct as you can go.

4. Locate where your dryer vents to the outside of the house. Remove any dryer vent hardware to access the duct.

5. Repeat the process from the outside, running your flexible cable into the duct (toward the dryer) and vacuum out the loose lint. Follow this by hooking the dryer back up to the flexible duct inside the house and turn the dryer on, any remaining lint will blow out of the duct. Finally, replace any hardware on the outside of the house.

You may be surprised by the amount of lint you vacuum out. In some cases you might remove several POUNDS of lint. In any case, you will save yourself the chance of a fire disaster, and keep your dryer running smooth for years to come.

What Is a Commercial Vacuum? Which One Is Best Designed to Fit Your Needs?

Whether it is hundreds of files stored in your office or thousands of books in the school library; dust and dirt can reach just about anywhere. Sweepers and cleaners will do their job well but some amount of dust and dirt will still remain. Whether it is an office building, a school, hospital, super-market, industrial space, hotel or any other commercial or industrial building; it is important to clean in such a way that dust and dirt is removed. This is where professional cleaning services come into the picture but then their charges can be outrageous. Is there any other solution?

There certainly is a solution and it is a one-time investment - buy a commercial vacuum. Using a commercial vacuum cleaner or even floor polishers and floor extraction cleaners, you can keep your office space free of dust and dirt. Dirt and dust not only accumulate on the floors but also on furniture and in places where your hand might not reach. This is where commercial vacuum cleaners will be extremely useful.

Choosing a Commercial Vacuum Cleaner

Depending on your requirements including the type of building, you will need to choose a commercial vacuum cleaner. Some of the top brands offering commercial vacuum cleaners include Eureka, Hoover, Electrolux-Sanitaire, and Royal although the top two brands of vacuum cleaners are Sanitaire and Royal. You can even buy floor extraction cleaners and floor polishers from Sanitaire or Royal as well.

When choosing a vacuum cleaner, you need to know the types of commercial cleaners available and how they can satisfy your need/requirement. There are basically two types of vacuums: commercial uprights and canister vacuums. Both types of vacuums have their advantages and disadvantages. Here is an insight into both types of vacuum cleaners:

Important Aspects of Commercial Vacuum Cleaners

One of the important things is that whether you are buying Sanitaire or Royal commercial vacuums, you need to choose those models that offer you more value for money. Sanitaire and Royal commercial vacuums are definitely the best in the market but they have different models that satisfy different requirements/needs. Here are some of the important aspects that you need to keep an eye out for:

a) Motor power: Motor power determines the performance of all vacuums. If your office has a huge pile of files and books and other inventory that regularly accumulates dust then you will need a commercial vacuum with a minimum of 8.5-amp motor although 12 amps is considered as ideal. For floor cleaning, you can even use the SC6005A Floor Machine w/ 15" Brush. There are different types of floor polishers and floor extraction cleaners that can be used but ensure that the minimum power is 10hp.

b) Cleaning Path: You need to choose a Sanitaire or Royal vacuum that offers the widest cleaning path within your budget. For example: You can get a 13-inch cleaning path using a 12-amp motor with the Royal RY5300 Commercial Upright Vacuum Cleaner, which is perfect.

c) Filtration: Both Royal and Sanitaire commercial vacs offer some of the best filtration technologies in the industry for a price that you can afford. Both brands offer HEPA filters as a part of their standard equipment. This is a recommended feature because it will ensure that your office or school, hospital or industrial space remains dust-free and allergy-free. In case, you are unable to find HEPA Sanitaire vacuums in your city then you can even opt for 2-stage filtration commercial vacuum cleaners.

Last but not the least, always ask for manufacturer's warranty and what all it covers. At the end of the day, a commercial vacuum cleaner will remain as one of the most important assets. After all, a clean office reflects a professional image!

Interior Styling So Simple Even a Guy Can Do It

Do you know the difference between a duvet, davenport and armoire? Does your wall decor and table centerpiece have to match the linens? Do you know the difference between primary colors and secondary colors? If you answered 'yes' to any two of the previous three questions: congratulations, the Bravo network would like to offer you your own television series! But, if words like camel-back, drop-leaf and love-seat bring to mind the pictorial from that certain magazine you've got stashed away in the garage, read on.

When it comes to interior design for your vehicle, there are a number of simple and affordable additions that can revitalize your interior faster than you can say "queer eye for the straight guy." And as any of those guys will tell you, simply tossing in a set of fuzzy dice ain't gonna cut it, honey. Here are three of the easiest and most affordable upgrades you'll ever make to your vehicle.

The first interior upgrade is also the most functional: a set of auto seat covers. Your upholstery can soak up sweat, dirt and other grime like a sponge. Before long, your interior reflects a dull, worn look and smells like a gym bag. But with a set of high-grade auto seat covers, you can protect your interior from spills, stains and other wear and tear that can permanently ruin your upholstery...and resale value along with it. Crafted from heavy-duty materials for long-lasting durability and comfort, a quick spin through your home washer and dryer cleans them up and restores them to like-new. Their precision-cut patterns go on and off in seconds and don't even require tools to install. If you know how to slip something on (a glove, for example), you've got all the skill you'll need. Plus, many auto seat covers come pre-coated with a water-repellent treatment to protect your interior from liquids that would otherwise permanently soak in or stain the fabric of your car seats.

Dash covers make another good upgrade. Lining the curves and contours of your dash, dash covers and a dash kit provide a quality look through precision patterns, ensuring a flawless fit. Available in a wide variety of styles and colors, including carpet, suede and velor, dash covers protect your dash from UV rays, muddy shoes, soda pop spills and anything else encountered in everyday driving. In addition, quality dash covers are custom-tailored to your vehicle's make, model and year for a perfect fit that won't block any of your vents.

The final upgrade would be the inclusion of heavy-duty car mats. The workhorse in any vehicle, car mats feature tall outer ridges that contain the nastier, runnier messes that would otherwise soak into the carpeting of your floorboards. They're available in 1-piece or 2-piece designs and computer-designed for a precision fit, providing maximum coverage without covering up those essential floor controls.