Filterless Air Purifiers - Cleaning The Air With Less Work For You

Filterless air purifiers are a relatively new invention in the air filter market. These air cleaners have templates inside them, each with an opposite charge, to attract dust and dirt from the air. The charged particles then stick to the plates inside the air purifier. Cleaning is simple; you merely wipe them off or quickly immerse them in slightly soapy water (depending on the model) and swish them around until they become clean again. You then let these plates air dry and reinsert them so they can go back to work, with no disposable filters to replace. In some cases, the purifiers also have ionization pins that should be gently cleaned with a Q-tip and alcohol. Again, they should be allowed to dry so that there is no chance of electric shock or other hazard once they're turned on.

Filtration systems are becoming more necessary with things such as air pollution, dust and dander in our homes become more and more prevalent. With new construction going up every day, homes are becoming ever closer together, and cars on the road increase pollutants in the air as well. Asthma and allergies are also more prevalent these days than in years past. Therefore, air purifiers can help greatly reduce pollutants in the air inside your home, and make it both easier and more pleasant to breathe while reducing congestion or allergy symptoms.

Fairly recently, HEPA air filters were state-of-the-art in the air filter industry. Now, however, filterless systems are becoming more popular. They are cheaper and easier to operate, seldom break down, have no expensive, hard to find disposable filters to replace, and perhaps most importantly, are almost silent in their operation. This is especially important if the air filter is in a location such as your bedroom where you need quiet in order to sleep.

Also relatively recently, these filterless systems were very expensive, even if they were of high quality. Now, however, they have become less costly as competition has brought prices down. This means that a filterless unit is very affordable, and doesn't cost any more than one with a filter does. It also generally lasts quite a bit longer since there are no moving parts to break down.

You can buy purifiers that supposedly filter the air in up to 1000 square feet of space, or smaller room-sized ones that generally cover about 250 square feet. Even though it may seem like a good idea to buy one central filter that covers up to 1000 square feet, it's generally more cost-effective and efficient to buy smaller ones. This is because airflow does not go around corners, through walls, etc., particularly well. Therefore, your air is going to be cleaner and it's going to be filtered more efficiently if you buy smaller units and place them strategically throughout your home. In general, you should buy one unit for about every 250 square feet in your home. For the best results you should place one in each "enclosed" room such as a bedroom, while a large open space such as a combination living room/dining room may only need one unit for the entire space, depending on how large it is.

There has been some concern over the ionization process for some of these filterless air purifiers because of the small amount of ozone they produce, but if this is a concern for you, most of these systems have separate controls so that the ionization process can be turned off. The choice is up to you. Regardless, however, filterless units can save you a lot of money both in energy consumption and filter replacement costs, and may actually be even more efficient than those with filters.

Home Insurance - It's a Rat Race

What is a rat? Is it a cute, furry animal which makes a good pet, or a vile disgusting vermin? Or is it just yet another insurance risk?

At this time of year, it would appear so. As the weather gets colder and the first frosts begin, wild rats cannot rely on food supplies from household waste any longer. The UK rat population is seeking warmth, security and food inside our homes instead. This means that, because of a rat's natural instinct to gnaw, householders are finding bricks, joists, furniture and even wiring and pipes are being chewed.

Aside from the aggravation and cost in fixing these problems, it's also becoming apparent that these furry fiends are causing fires and even explosions in the homes they're feasting on. An 80 year old grandmother had her gas pipes chewed through by rats and subsequently died after an explosion in her home caused by leaking gas. While this is an extreme case, it's still a very real risk and householders are urged to check their pipes and wiring thoroughly for signs of rat infestation.

It's estimated that rats and mice are responsible for around 7 percent of household fires as well as structural damage and damage to household contents. If you have home insurance you may think that you'll be covered if you have to claim because of rodent interference, but in most cases you won't be able to. The majority of insurers will not pay out for a house fire or other damages claim if it's discovered that the cause was rodent damage.

So this winter, take some precautions to ensure you're not affected by ratties. Setting rodent traps can be effective, as can sonic plug-ins which deter rodents by emitting a high-pitched noise. Check all round your house for possible entry points such as drains, dryer vents etc., and seal up if possible. Rodents are mostly attracted by food so make sure all household kitchen scraps are sealed up tight - double-bagging if necessary. You can even pour a small amount of bleach inside the bags to disguise the food odours.

25 Top Gas Grills Compared

All too often consumers seeking a high end stainless steel gas grill are won over by a manufacturer's reputation, the look of the grill or other factors such as recommendations from friends or family. Now, this is a fairly large investment, as appliances go, and consulting an expert in the field could help in making an informed decision. A reliable gas grill specialist can help you evaluate the various features found in these high end grills and quide you to the best choice for the features you prefer.
The simplest way to compare the manufacturers objectively, of course, is with a chart! Our chart compares Fire Magic, Alfresco, Kenmore Elite, Viking, DCS, Dacor, Lynx, Vintage, Weber Summit Gold D, Wolf, Altima, Turbo, ProFire, Phoenix, Tec, Solaire Infrared, Vieluxe, Lazy Man, Jenn Air, Holland, FrontGate, Capitol, Crown Verity, Ducane and Dynasty.

Some of the features on the chart are:

*BTU Output: How many burners, and how many BTUs are standard?
You'll need to do some math to determine the actual heat your food will receive. Ideally, you want to have over 95 BTU's per square inch of cooking surface. How will you know? Take your total BTU's and divide it by the primary cooking surface. So.... if your cooking surface is 660 square inches and the total BTU's are 104,000 then 104,000 BTU's divided by 660 square inches = 157 BTU's per square inch. That would be a winner!!!

*Temperature Range: This is a very important characteristic if you like to do a variety of cooking. You'll be able to do everything from searing steaks to baking pizza with a
large temperature range.

*Burner material can consist of cast stainless steel, stainless steel sheet metal, cast iron, infra-red and even cast brass, which is used in commercial settings. Dual burners allow for indirect cooking and better heat control. Cast brass or cast stainless burners are your best bet. They will last longer and are more durable. Grease tends to burn through sheet metal easily.

*Infra-Red Burners are an option for those who demand a well seared steak. Thinking of an infra-red cooking system? Temperatures on an infra-red cooking system can reach up to 1600 degrees on some grills. Infra-red cooking allows for quick, high temperatures, which cuts cooking time and helps seal in juices -- perfect for searing a steak. If blackened food or steaks are your taste preference - infra-red cooking is the way to go. If you plan on conventional cooking -- go with a hybrid that offers infra-red and standard burners. Tip - make sure you can convert infra-red burners back to standard for large parties.

*Rotisserie backburners are a popular option. Used to cook large pieces of meat evenly, rotisseries use a lot less heat than normal grilling. BTU ranges generally range in the 13-15,000 category but the best grills offer 18-28,000 BTUs. Meats cooked using a rotisserie are generally juicier, self-basted and slow roasted. Tip - look for a model with a drip tray to make cleanup easier. Be sure to compare available rotisserie space, especially if you want to roast a turkey or two.

*A Triple Gourmet Grill allows you to use gas, infra-red AND charcoal cooking! How versatile can you get!!

*An adjustable smoker box is perfect for those who enjoy the added flavor of hickory, mesquite or other wood to your meats. It makes smoking easy. Adjustable vents allow you to control the amount of smoke flavor to provide just the right taste.

*Warranty is one of the most important features to consider. Only the best grills offer a warranty against a condition called burn through which affects the burners.

*Does the grill you are considering offer a countertop model? These types of gas grills can be dropped into an outdoor kitchen which can be customized with your choice of tile, stucco or other solid surfaces, doors, drawers and other accessories like refrigerators or sinks.

*Cooking Grids: Stainless steel cooking surfaces won't rust or chip. Porcelain cooking surfaces tend to chip and could flake off into food. No N.S.F. (National Sanitation Federation) affiliates use porcelain cooking grids.

*Cooking Grid Size: How many people do you regularly feed? The size of your crowd will determine how big your grill should be. Tip - make sure you can convert infra-red burners back to standard for large parties.

*Inner Liner: This accessory radiates heat more evenly to grill, directs dripping to tray and separates the valve and manifold from combustion chamber. This will prolong the life of your burners and reduce the chances of a grease fire. The grill hood covers the cooking surface and assists in trapping the heated air inside. Look for a double insulated wall hood. If you're buying a stainless steel model, with a double insulated wall hood, it won't turn a brown or blue hue. It will keep it's shine.

*Stainless Steel Flavor Grids: This heat distribution system should be stainless steel for long life and durability. Flavor grids reflect all the heat up toward the grilling surface
and vaporizes drippings. You can add wood chips and other flavor enhancers to your flavor grids to add some zest to your choice of meat.

*Fuel Conversion: Will your grill easily convert from natural gas to propane if you want to move it from the back yard to the street for a block party?

*Side burners provide versatility giving you separate controls for each burner. Side burners offer you additional cooking options and come with single or double burners. You
can fry up some french fries or treat the team to sweet corn. The BTUs range from 12-17,000, but be sure to look for cast brass or cast stainless burners.

More Great Options:

*A power/wok burner will give you even more cooking diversity. Saute onions or boil lobsters! Brown butter or deep fry a turkey! Having a party? A power burner can
accommodate a 26" wok! With a range of 3,000 - 60,000 Btu's, the power burner is a definite advantage for any cook!

*A full sear plate or briquette tray (which can also be filled with lava rocks or wood chips) under the cooking surface protects burners and allows for drippings to smolder which gives foods more flavor. Look for a model that will quickly flash the drippings eliminating flare-ups.

*Adding a warming rack will keep food warm and away from direct heat and also give you extra cooking space.

*Add a griddle to your side burner and enjoy breakfast alfresco!

Armed with this information, you should be able to define your needs and choose a grill that will give you many years of great food and good times. Enjoy!

Ironing Tips - How to Make the Job So Much Easier

Unless we can afford to pay for an outside laundry service, the following ironing tips can greatly help make ironing a less arduous task. Just look them over quickly and see if there is something you can learn to speed up your ironing and improve the results.

Here are the best ironing tips:

Move the fabric away from you not toward you as you iron, to avoid needless creasing.

Improve the results of your ironing by reflecting more heat. Do this by putting a sheet of aluminum foil (shiny side up) between your ironing board and the ironing board cover. Alternatively, purchase a metal coated ironing board cover.

Certain fabrics such as viscose, dark fabrics, acetates, and wash and wear fabrics in general, should be ironed on the reverse side to avoid giving a shine.

One of the best money saving ironing tips is to make your own starch solution if you need to use a spray starch on certain fabrics. Simply dissolve 1 tablespoon of cornstarch in 2 cups of water, pour the solution into a spray bottle, and voila, you have your own spray starch.

Some ironing boards come with a sleeve board attachment, ideal for shirts and blouses. If you don't have one, roll up a towel and insert it in the sleeve before ironing.

Some thick fabrics need ironing on both sides. Be sure to iron the inside first and the outside last.

Take a moment to sort your laundry before starting to iron so you have a pile of garments needing low temperature and graduate to the garments needing a higher temperature, adjusting the thermometer on your iron progressively.

Don't iron dirty clothing or stained clothing. It can make it difficult to remove the stain afterwards as it becomes set in the fabric.

After ironing shirts, put them on hangers and then fasten the top and center buttons. The shirt will then hang straight and your ironing efforts will last!

For large items like tablecloths or bedsheets, put layers of newspaper out on a large table, cover them with a sheet and place the tablecloth or bedsheet on top to iron.

When choosing an ironing board, get one with a wide end. It is easier and quicker to iron on this extra surface with less strokes and doesn't require moving the fabric so often.

For shirts, iron them when slightly damp. If they have dried to much, spray them with a little water.

Shirts can be the bane of your life, so work out a sequence that suits you and stick to it. For many, the following procedure works well although there are many individual preferences: shoulders and collar, cuffs, sleeves, right front, back, left front.

In Summary

These are some of the best ironing tips to make the job easier. However, the internet is a wonderful research tool and this is true when it comes to finding good ironing tips. In the age of video it is possible to find web sites with a variety of videos containing ironing tips for all kinds of garments. Simply type "ironing videos" into your favorite search engine and start watching. (Be sure to include the quotes for better search results)

Just taking 20 minutes or so to research ironing tips can change the whole nature of this laborious job into one you walk through quickly and efficiently!

How To Fix a Frost - Free Refrigerator That Is Leaking Water

A common problem with some frost free refrigerators is water leakage out of the refrigerator. This mystery problem leads to puddles in the bottom of the refrigerator and on the floor in front of it. Seems like a pretty strange thing for a frost free refrigerator to experience. What could be causing it, and what to do about it?

That kind of fridge periodically goes through a defrost cycle. The blower goes off, the compressor goes off, and a heater comes on in the freezer. This melts the frost off the evaporator coil and the resulting water runs down a drain that is located in the back of the freezer under the freezer covers.

Down the drain...

Except that if the freezer has not been kept scrupulously clean, stuff can get under the covers and block that drain. In this case, the water backs up and freezes. Then it builds up. Eventually, the ice in the freezer under the cover has reached the point where, when the defrost cycle comes on, the water runs out into the refrigerator portion.

Mid sized Kelvinators and White-Westinghouse refrigerators are particularly susceptible to this problem, although I have seen it in other brands.

To solve the problem you have to take the covers off inside the freezer. Chip out the ice, and clean out the drain.

Some people have had success with wrapping a copper wire around the heater in the freezer and directing the end of that wire down the drain. The idea is that the copper wire will divert extra heat to the drain opening during the defrost cycle, and this will help prevent the formation of the ice plug which ultimately causes the backup. Also, the wire sticking down into the drain acts to keep objects that have migrated through the vents (thing like onion skins, or small pieces of paper or plastic) from the freezer from completely covering the drain and blocking it.

How to Substantially Cut Your Energy Bills

Look In The Attic: Attic insulation is taken for granted many homeowners think they're covered when they're not. A well insulated attic will afford you a substantial savings on your heating costs. Make a trip to your attic with a ruler/yard stick in hand, check the thickness of your insulation if the insulation under the rafters is six inches thick or less, you need to adjust your R-value. R-value is a rating of resistance to heat flow; higher numbers signal a better ability to protect against heat transfer. Most attics need an R-value of 38 or more, which typically translates into at least a foot of insulation, (check with a local insulation retailer for the proper coverage in your area). Because colder climes need more protection, recommended R-values vary across the country, so find out how much insulation you need (or log onto simplyinsulate.com). New insulation isn't cheap, but compare to what you loose in heating cost each year, it will pay for itself in no time, and it can lower heating and cooling costs by 25 percent in a single year. And don't forget, that starting in 2006, you can get up to $500 in federal tax credits for insulating your home (for more information, go to energy.gov and click on The Energy Bill and You).

Where Is That Air Coming From: Replacing old windows with airtight ones may also qualify you for that tax break and can cut heat loss from your home in half. But, if you can't afford to buy new windows this year there are some cheaper alternatives that can still save you up to 10 percent annually. Check for leaks around windows and doors by holding a lit candle (you can also buy power/smoke tester at your local retailer) in front of your window if the flame flickers, you need to find the leak and seal it. For an easy fix, apply peel-and stick weather stripping, available at any hardware store. If you have some really leaky windows consider buying a plastic insulation kit (they sell anywhere from $3 to $8) now your window will not will the Better Home & Gardens Award, but it'll block the cold and reduce your heating costs. Easy solution...

Fill Those Gaps: Getting rid of leaks can save you $$ on your annual heating bill. You should do a whole house inspection not just windows and doors. Holes, gaps around pipes, cracks, dryer vents, fixtures, and outside outlets can be a substantial source of heat loss, take a look around the house fill in any cracks with silicone or acrylic caulks. For larger cracks/ spaces (more than a half inch) use a spray-type sealant-a can of latex foam filler it will do the job nicely. (Don't forget that the foam will expand as it dries, so don't go over board filling the gaps).

Duct Those Joints: It's funny how most of us use duct tape for everything, but its intended purpose. You know the heating/cooling ducts that run through the basement, attics and crawl spaces. Well grab that duct tape by tapping off all those seams and leaks you can find will keep your heated/cooled air from escaping in turn your heating/cooling system will not have to work as hard. The results you can shave several degrees off your thermostat setting and still feel just as warm. The Department of Energy estimates that leaky ducts can increase heating and cooling costs by hundreds of dollars a year. (Lots of money to be saved here)

Get Your Degree: Lowering your water heater's setting from a very HOT 140 degree Fahrenheit to a just HOT enough 120 degrees can save you nearly $50 a year. You can save another 10 percent by wrapping your hot water tank in a $15/$20 insulating blanket. To be on the safe side, check with the heater's manufacturer to see if your unit can be wrapped (A word of caution, insulating blankets are not recommended for gas heater.)

My Feet Are Cold: Do you sit in your favorite room reading or watching TV and your feet get cold you can feel that cold air. "Well Let's Stop It". Rooms can lose heat through electrical outlets and light switches on outside walls, because the spaces behind them are usually un-insulated. To solve the problem, make a trip down to the local hardware supplier and pick up some precut outlet gaskets, they cost only a few dollars per eight-pack. They are fairly easy to install, (Do read the direction before starting.). Simply remove the screw from the outlet plate, fit the insulating foam gaskets on the back of the outlet cover, and replace it. Repeat for the switch covers as well. Pretty Easy...

Know Watt's - Watt: One easy cost savings is to replace your light bulbs with new compact fluorescents (CFLs) they use almost 75 percent less energy than conventional incandescent bulb providing 100 watts of illumination for only 32 watts of power. They will vary depending on what watt bulb you purchase. Replacing just five of your most frequently used bulbs with fluorescents can lower your electric bill by more than $50 annually.

Up-Grade Those Appliances: New model washers, refrigerators, and other home appliances that sport the Environmental Protection Agency's Energy Star insignia are major energy savers. Next time you're at Lowe's, Home Depot or your favorite appliance store, take a look. I know we have all seen them one time or the other, but we probably never really bothered to read them, take a look. The average Energy Star appliance uses up to 50 percent less energy than one made a decade ago. That translates into substantial savings on your electric bill about $20 in annual operating costs for a dishwasher, $55 for a fridge, and a whopping $110 for a washing machine.

Damper it Down: Ah!! Sitting down in front of a nice fire is a great way to relax and get warm, but in the long run it usually will not save you any money on heating dollars. In fact, they could go up in smoke if you fail to close the damper once the fire has gone out. If you feel a chill in front of your fireplace when it's not in use check to make sure the damper is fully closed. If it is, and you still feel a draft your damper may not seal properly, get your damper checked by a professional in the office season. Consider installing a set of glass doors they help save on energy and look great too.

Where's Honey: Lowering your thermostat by roughly 10 percent (for instance, from 73 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit) for eight hours a day can save approximately 10 percent off your heating bill. There is another very inexpensive way to stay warm merely adding a sweater or additional article of clothing, but for most this is not appealing at all. This one can even perk up your marriage or relationship, before going to bed turn down the thermostat and cuddle under a down comforter or an electric blanket.

Flip The Fan: Here's another great heat saver, did you know that by reversing your ceiling fan in the winter can actually keep you warm for less. It will re-circulate warm air which rises to the ceiling, recycling heat back into the room (try the lowest setting). The fan costs only pennies a day to operate-and for every degree it allows you to turn down the thermostat you should save and estimated 5 percent on your total heating bill. And you though that fan was just for those hot muggy nights!

Energy Audits Are Good: Try the Home Energy Saver program at http://hes.lbl.gov it lets you plug in information about your home's age, square footage, and other details to gauge its energy efficiency. Or you can check with your local energy supplier and ask them to conduct heat-loss checks via infrared cameras and blower door testing. (Check on the cost as they will vary from state to state) Usually, an energy audit costs from $25 to $400, and some energy companies offer free audits for low-income households.

Hope this will help you to save, on your Heating and A/C costs in the future.

Author

Mike Pulli

Why is My Dryer Not Heating?

CAUTION: Most electric dryers use 220 volts to power the heating element. Always disconnect the dryer power cord from the wall receptacle before doing any tests or repair work.

Here are some tips.

Check the fuses
If you have an electric dryer, the first thing to check are the fuses or breakers in your homes fuse box. If this fuse is blown, it is possible for your dryer to spin but not produce heat. If you've checked the fuses and they are not blown, the next possible cause is the heating element.

Check the heating element
To check the heating element, move the back panel of the dryer. You'll need a volt/ohmmeter to check the element terminal. Locate the element and set the volt/ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale. Remove one lead from the element and then place one probe of the volt/ohmmeter on the terminal of the element. Place the other probe of the volt/ohmmeter on the remaining terminal of the element. Look for a continuity reading of the volt/ohmmeter of approximately 2-5 ohms. If there is no continuity reading, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.

LINT- Your dryer's greatest enemy

To extend the life of your dryer, clean the lint filter every time you use the dryer. Even if the lint filter is cleaned after every load, lint will still accumulate around the dryer's moving parts, the exhaust duct and vent.

Each year inspect the vent pipe and vent cover operation. Disconnect the exhaust duct and remove lint from the internal exhaust pipe, the duct and the vent. Make sure the duct has no kinks, where lint and moisture can build-up.

Turn off the power, remove the front and rear panels and vacuum out the lint from around the motor and idler.Poor air flow uses more energy and can cause lint build-up in the internal ducting, leading to a fire hazard.